铁观音茶汤

我一度怀疑自己上辈子是一只白瓷杯，只装淡绿色铁观音的德化白瓷。要不然怎么会在清晨睁眼的第一刻，意识尚未完全清醒，味蕾就开始思念那一口清冽的琥珀色茶汤。当然，茶汤浸润的不仅仅是每一天的开始，在我年近三十的大部分时光。

品茗之体验，可以发生在任何时空。土生土长的泉州人家中，一套纯白色陶瓷功夫茶具是必备的。玲珑小巧，晶莹剔透，分类规整，一杯只能呷上一两口就需续杯。心情晴朗，就泡一壶清甜，独自欢喜；有朋自远方来，也泡上一盅表示欢迎。自打有记忆以来，每日起床的第一件事就是烧水泡茶，这是从父母亲那儿得来的习惯。不知从什么时候始，已经将这一套工序掌握得行云流水般熟练，品茗也悄然成为习惯陪伴我逐渐长大。

铁观音是茶几上的常住客，很奇怪，也曾领略过其他茶叶的香气，却依然保持对铁观音的绝对忠诚，不知道这是不是基因的传承。待炉上的水咕噜咕噜地滚开，蜷缩的茶叶逐渐舒展开来，顿时一室清香，茶香袅袅。茶汤与唇齿碰撞，先是带着些许微苦在齿间酝酿开来，而后带着回环往复的甘甜与舌头共舞，清淡而又惊艳。看似烦琐的泡茶工序，每一步都充满难以言传的乐趣，否则我怎么会着了迷似的，日复一日百遍不厌。人间难得的几许清欢，全都躲在这一小盏琼浆玉液般的茶汤里。汤水，和缓缓升腾而起的蒸汽一起温润人心。

上了大学，离开故乡到遥远的北方，看见了人生的第一场雪，吃到了与家乡风味不一样的地方菜，体验了与从前完全不同的生活，但却总觉得似乎少了些什么。那是味蕾的记忆在提醒着我，于是，那一缕清冽甘甜又开始在清晨叩问我的梦境。想起那一口清爽的回甘，想那盏装着淡青色的白瓷，心头顿时有许多蚂蚁在挠痒痒般地啃噬。罢了，许是故乡在思念漂泊的游子。赶紧翻出简易的茶具，泡上一杯铁观音，才慢慢缓解了这般饥渴。大抵心安便是家，若没有来自故乡的茗茶陪伴，也许会少了几分妥帖。

而我在北方的朋友，因为我，获得了对铁观音的初识。在大雪纷飞的雪夜，几个人挤在小小的寝室，看着我行云流水地走完一套泡茶的工序，再共同品茗，这次的主角依然是铁观音。“哎呀，好苦！”“喝完有回甘耶！”“原来这就是铁观音！”缘分就此打开，有的朋友还不远万里来到铁观音的故乡，来到我的故乡。在这一盏小小的淡青色茶汤里，南北方的距离一下子缩短了。

我总觉得，和不同的人，在不同的时空下，对品茗总是能有新的认识。当我坐在红砖古厝中听古稀老人讲古，茶汤似乎还带上一股陈年韵味；当我坐在茶叶店里听老板介绍不同品种的铁观音对应的武侠人物，茶水似乎又多了一份武侠气息；当我坐在家中听雨小憩，铁观音便增了几分闲适心安……人生若只如初见，但谁能与铁观音一般，次次相见如初见。

也许我上辈子就是安溪铁观音？谁知呢。但有幸，今生能做闽南人，能与我所爱之人共品甘醇，共享清欢。

I once suspected that in my previous life, I was a white porcelain cup containing only the pale green Tieguanyin white porcelain from Dehua. Otherwise, at the first moment when I opened my eyes in the morning, my taste buds would start to miss the clear amber tea soup before my consciousness was fully awakened. Of course, the tea soup is not only the beginning of every day, but most of the time I was nearly 30 years old.

The experience of tasting tea can happen in any time and space. A set of pure white ceramic Kung Fu tea set is a must in a native Quanzhou home. Exquisite, small, crystal clear, neatly sorted, only one or two sips for a cup, and the cup needs to be refilled. If you are in a good mood, just soak in a pot of sweetness, and rejoice alone; if a friend comes from afar, he also soaks in a cup to express welcome. Since I can remember, the first thing I do to get up every day is to boil water to make tea. This is a habit from my parents. I don't know when I have mastered this set of procedures so well, and tasting tea has quietly become a habit to accompany me when I grow up.

Tieguanyin is a frequent visitor on the coffee table. It is strange that he has tasted the aroma of other teas, but still maintains absolute loyalty to Tieguanyin. I don't know if this is a genetic inheritance. When the water on the stove rolled away, the curled tea leaves gradually unfolded, and the fragrance of the tea was suddenly scented. The tea soup collided with the lips and teeth, first with a little bitterness brewing between the teeth, and then dancing with the tongue with the sweetness of reciprocating loops, light and stunning. The seemingly cumbersome tea making process, every step is full of unspeakable fun, otherwise, how could I be fascinated, day after day, endless times. The rare few Qinghuans in the world are all hiding in this small cup of tea soup like a jade liquid. The soup, together with the slowly rising steam, moisturizes people's hearts.

Going to university, leaving my hometown to the far north, I saw the first snow in my life, ate local dishes with a different flavor from my hometown, and experienced a life completely different from before, but I always felt that something was missing. It was the memory of my taste buds that reminded me, so that ray of freshness and sweetness began to ask about my dreams in the early morning. Thinking of that refreshing mouthful of sweetness, thinking of the light blue white porcelain, many ants are gnawing like tickles in my heart. No matter, Xu is a wanderer who misses the wandering in his hometown. I quickly turned out a simple tea set and soaked a cup of Tieguanyin, which slowly relieved such hunger and thirst. In general, peace of mind is home. If you don’t have tea from your hometown to accompany you, you might be less appropriate.

And my friends in the north, because of me, got the first knowledge of Tieguanyin. On a snowy night with heavy snowfall, a few people crowded into the small bedroom, watching me go through a set of tea-making procedures, and then taste tea together. This time the protagonist is still Tie Guanyin. "Oh, it's so bitter!" "I will return to Ganye after drinking!" "It turns out that this is Tieguanyin!" The fate opened up. Some friends have not travelled far away to Tieguanyin's hometown and came to my hometown. In this small light blue tea soup, the distance between the north and the south is suddenly shortened.

I always feel that with different people, in different time and space, you can always have a new understanding of Pinming. When I sit in the red brick house and listen to the old people talking about the ancient times, the tea soup seems to have an old flavor; when I sit in the tea shop and listen to the boss introduces different varieties of Tieguanyin corresponding martial arts characters, there seems to be more tea. A breath of martial arts; when I sit at home listening to the rain and take a nap, Tie Guanyin feels a little more leisurely and at ease... If life is only like the first time I saw it, but who can meet Tie Guanyin again and again is like the first time I see it.

Maybe I was a leaf of Tieguanyin in my previous life? Who knows. But fortunately, I can be a Hokkien in this life, and enjoy the sweetness and joy with the people I love.