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铁观音纯雅礼和

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乌龙茶色香韵味
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安溪铁观音秋茶与美酒

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Issuing time:2021-10-23 11:07

在秋天最芬芳的不只有桂花,福建安溪铁观音盛名在外,它独有的兰香气,一样叫人挂怀。经过茶农们昼夜不分地晒青、揉青等不同工序,最香的铁观音秋茶已经在霜降前制作装袋。在福建的生活,用一位朋友的话来说,白天以秋茶开始,晚上以美酒结束。



西坪寻茶斗茶品茶


一到安溪,茶乡近在眼前。漫山遍野的铁观音茶园,从高山上望去,像层层叠叠的梯田。家家户户都在晾晒,到处都是茶:长在树上的,摊在地上的,晾在匾中的,揉在锅里的……空气中的铁观音茶香毫不吝啬地四处弥漫着,吸一口,铁观音特有的兰花气,沁人心脾。在一户农家的晾茶间,那种好闻的味道绝对胜过什么香奈儿5号之类的名牌香水,我们忍不住像瑜伽那样用腹式呼吸法深呼吸。


茶农家总养着几只热情的“旺财”,偶尔惊起的几声犬吠,夕阳里袅袅升起的几缕炊烟,组成了乡间的温柔图景。



安溪县的西坪镇,是铁观音的发源地,在南岩山腰上我们慕名找到了那棵铁观音母树,后来人所喝到的茶,都是这棵母树的子孙呢。


我们跟着茶农跳进茶田,亲手采几片新鲜的茶叶。在采茶农忙之余,当地茶农常爱聚在一块,斗茶!就着一个茶海,一壶滚水。懂经的茶农蒙上眼睛,凭着灵敏的鼻子和舌头,立刻说出茶种。我们外行只能看看热闹,跟着喝一两杯最新的秋茶而已。


围着茶海,看铁观音茶农专业地洗茶,斟茶,第一泡香气微散,第二泡渐入佳境,茶汤呈金黄色,色泽亮丽。茶汤划入喉咙,整个胸腔都徘徊着铁观音的兰香气,喉头微微发甜。秋天的燥气也如浮云一样飘散。



在西坪的生活就像喝茶这样悠闲。在这里还有一大片古民居厝群,一个叫日寨,一个叫月寨,风雨呼应相看不厌。日寨厝厝相连,房子排成一个“日”字,居住在此的人都是大茶商,这里日日阳光充沛,村民每日斗茶晒太阳。


月寨则在高高的山尖上两排房子如古墨书香里的“月”字,不久前,月寨里的一株茶树刚用铁丝圈围起来,据说这是安溪另一个著名茶种,“本山”种的母树。在西坪,处处都有茶的渊源。


厦门闲坐筼筜湖畔


自安溪回厦门,不去日渐喧嚣的鼓浪屿。还是筼筜湖畔的白鹭洲吧,这块好地方是厦门市内风景最好的地方,也是厦门最大的开放式公园。


沿着筼筜湖畔的一周,聚集了厦门最文艺最时髦的咖啡吧和酒吧,露天的座位几乎全部被占满。在小排档饱餐海鲜后,沿着筼筜湖散步,钓鱼爱好者们扛着鱼竿,站在湖畔耐心地等鱼儿咬钩。



榕树盆景也是这里的一大亮点,园内还有一处特色景点,一条贯穿于公园东、中、西的黄金大道,长500米,夹道栽种着连绵起伏数百米黄金榕的路。走在路上,一伸手就能扯到榕树挂下来的“胡须”。


筼筜湖原与大海相通,上世纪70年代围海造田,筼筜港成为内湖,湖中台地取名白鹭洲。在筼筜湖边,风景最好的一处酒吧就是“阅读着”,临湖而坐,一眼望出去,就是湖水和海水交汇的宽阔处。


几个朋友,开一瓶葡萄酒,点一份烤箱烤出来的健康薯条,八卦一下鼓浪屿上那些真真假假的“鬼故事”。清风朗朗,厦门夜间的温度,让你坐在室外也觉得十分适宜。与喝茶相比,是另一种微醺的悠闲。

Osmanthus is the most fragrant in autumn. Tieguanyin in Anxi, Fujian is famous. Its unique orchid fragrance is just as impressive. After different processes such as drying and rubbing the green day and night, the most fragrant Tieguanyin autumn tea has been made and bagged before the frost. Life in Fujian, in the words of a friend, starts with autumn tea during the day and ends with wine in the evening.



Xiping Xunchadou tea tasting tea


As soon as we arrived in Anxi, the tea village was in front of our eyes. Seen from the mountains, the tea plantations are like layers of terraced fields. Every family is drying, and there is tea everywhere: growing on trees, spreading on the ground, hanging in a plaque, kneading in a pot... The fragrance of tea in the air spreads around without hesitation, take a sip, Tieguanyin's unique orchid air refreshes the heart. In the tea room of a farmhouse, the good smell is definitely better than some brand-name perfumes such as Chanel No. 5. We can't help but breathe deeply with abdominal breathing like yoga.


The tea farmer always keeps a few enthusiastic "prosperous wealth", the occasional startled barking of dogs, and the wisps of smoke rising in the setting sun form a gentle picture of the countryside.



Xiping Town in Anxi County is the birthplace of Tieguanyin. We found the Tieguanyin mother tree on the mountainside of Nanyan. The tea that people drank later was the descendants of this mother tree.


We followed the tea farmers into the tea fields and picked some fresh tea leaves by ourselves. When tea pickers are busy, local tea farmers often like to gather together and fight tea! There is a sea of tea and a pot of boiling water. A knowledgeable tea farmer blindfolded his eyes and immediately said the tea species with his sensitive nose and tongue. We laymen can only watch the excitement and drink a cup or two of the latest autumn tea.


Surrounded by the sea of tea, watch the tea farmers professionally wash and pour the tea. The aroma of the first bubble is slightly dispersed, and the second bubble is gradually getting better. The tea soup is golden yellow and the color is bright. The tea soup ran into his throat, and the orchid fragrance of Tieguanyin hovered throughout his chest cavity, and his throat was slightly sweet. The dry air in autumn also drifted away like clouds.



Life in Xiping is as leisurely as drinking tea. There is also a large group of ancient dwelling houses, one is called Rizhai and the other is Yuezhai. Rizhai and homes are connected together, and the houses are arranged in a "day" character. The people who live here are big tea merchants. There is plenty of sunshine here, and the villagers fight tea every day to bask in the sun.


In Yuezhai, there are two rows of houses on the top of the high mountain, like the word "moon" in ancient ink books. Not long ago, a tea tree in Yuezhai was surrounded by a wire ring. It is said that this is another famous tea species in Anxi. , The mother tree of the "benshan" plant. In Xiping, the origin of tea is everywhere.


Xiamen sits by the shore of Yundang Lake


From Anxi back to Xiamen, do not go to the increasingly noisy Gulangyu Island. Or Bailuzhou on the shore of Yundang Lake. This good place is the most scenic place in Xiamen, and it is also the largest open park in Xiamen.


A week along the shore of Yundang Lake, Xiamen’s most literary and fashionable coffee bars and bars gathered, and the open-air seats were almost fully occupied. After feasting on seafood in the small food stalls, take a walk along Yundang Lake. Fishing enthusiasts carry their fishing rods and stand by the lake patiently waiting for the fish to bite.



Banyan bonsai is also one of the highlights here. There is also a special attraction in the park, a golden avenue that runs through the east, middle and west of the park. It is 500 meters long, and the road is planted with hundreds of meters of undulating golden banyan roads. Walking on the road, you can pull the "beards" hanging from the banyan tree as soon as you reach out.


Yundang Lake was originally connected to the sea. In the 1970s, land was reclaimed from the sea and the port of Yundang became an inner lake. The platform in the lake was named Bailuzhou. By the side of Yundang Lake, the bar with the best view is "Reading". Sitting next to the lake, looking out, it is the wide area where the lake and the sea meet.


A few friends opened a bottle of wine, ordered healthy French fries baked in the oven, and gossip about the true and false "ghost stories" on Gulangyu Island. The breeze is bright, and the night temperature in Xiamen makes you feel comfortable sitting outdoors. Compared with drinking tea, it is another slightly drunken leisure.


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