正炒铁观音、回青铁观音、消青铁观音、拖补铁观音

安溪铁观音的四大制法：正炒、回青、消青、拖补!

1、正炒茶：采青后第二天中午11-12点炒青(杀青)，毛茶条形圆结，色泽乌绿润，香气高强，带兰花香，滋味醇和但带微涩，音韵明，汤色金黄。

2、回青制法：采青后第二天15-18点炒青(杀青)，毛茶条形紧结，色泽绿润，香气高强，滋味醇正，音韵明，带花生仁味及酸甜味，但滋味淡些，汤色金绿黄。

3、拔(消)青制法：采青后第二天22-24点炒青(杀青)，毛茶条形较紧结，色泽墨绿，香高，较醇正和有音韵，带酸甜味，汤黄色或深金黄。

4、拖青制法：采青后第三天6-10点炒青(杀青)，毛茶外形紧略不沉重结，色泽暗绿，香气尚高，不够纯正，音韵轻，滋味醇和带有较强酸馊味，久浸则茶汤转橙黄色，叶底硬挺暗绿。

其中最接近传统工艺的是正炒铁观音，最常见的是拖补：

正炒做法：正炒做法基本按传统铁观音的制作工艺，多摇青少摊凉让茶叶充分完成走水过程，并及时下锅杀青，所以称为正炒。正炒做法具有传统铁观音的特征，干茶砂绿色明显，因走水充分汤色黄绿、明亮、透白;汤味滑、活、厚，上等茶花果香浓郁，观音韵明显，回味甘甜，口齿留香;叶底色黄绿，有光泽，底片柔软;安溪茶农自己留着喝的也多数都是这种工艺茶。因此正炒铁观音适合有一定茶龄的茶客，也适合斗茶。正炒做法是多摇少摊，摇青时间长摊凉静置时间短，通常称走水。第一次摇青一般2-3分钟，第二次摇5-10分钟，第三次摇青要适当掌握。小则5-10分钟，多则20-60分钟。当然这都不是绝对的，应按天气及生产条件而变化。每次摇青之间，相隔是大约1个小时。而第三次摇青，要摇到茶青的青气基本消失，花果幽香起。正炒做法的茶青，在摇青完成后，至杀青时间，一定不能超过次日的中午。

拖补铁观音做法：拖补，为何叫拖呢，是青叶到了正常的要杀青的时候，但青叶的还不能完全完成做青要求，因此还要在超出的时间继续做青，于是有了拖的说法。不能完成是由于天气气候等因素的影响。慢慢的就形成了这种风格茶。要拖，就需要配以空调和抽湿机以完成。这样，就少摇多静，不摇出水，而是静置失水。于是就有了拖青和拖酸的茶品了。这种工艺做的好的有清爽的青香和酸香或清酸味，但基没有了铁观音的音韵，做的不好的有生硬的臭青味或闷青味或臭闷酸味。这类茶因为走水不充分，发酵度较低，冲泡时要快冲快出，否者汤色呈浑绿色，汤味青涩味明显。同样因为走水不充分，发酵度较低，这类茶底片青绿或墨绿，叶面生硬，青味明显。但此类茶干茶色泽碧绿，有开盖夺香之势，很容易吸引刚接触观音的茶客。拖补做法少摇多摊，摇青时间短摊凉静置时间长，通常称失水。第一次摇青，大约2分钟，第二次摇青，2-3分钟左右，第三次摇青，约3-5分钟。第三次摇青以后，将摇好的茶青，置于空调间，静置至次日下午以后，至茶青的臭青味完全消失，才可以开始入锅炒青。由于茶青静置时间长，杀青时间拖延至第二日晚，因此称为拖补，又叫拖青。

还有一种较流行的说法，按酸性来分，分为拖(歪)酸、正酸

安溪茶农对酸有两种表述：

一是歪酸：在摇青和静置阶段，制作者采用拖青和闷青的手段会产生“酸”;在揉捻后，焙茶前这段时间，包在揉布中的茶团静置，在这其间时间掌握不好，会产生“酸”;在南风天情况下，天气潮湿闷热，对青叶的水分散发不利也会产生“酸”，其实“酸”的形成在整个流程中，对茶青发酵的控制不当，都会产生。这些“酸”味其实是一种馊掉的味道，人们错误认识成酸味。“拖酸”是近年来铁观音市场出现的一种完全不同于传统口感的茶，其发酵轻，从采摘到下锅炒的间隔比传统的铁观音要长得多，口感浓烈。最早，“拖酸”的出现是茶农在制作铁观音的过程中，因失误、耽搁等偶然因素制出了“拖酸”茶。没想到，这种茶投放到市场时，很受欢迎，市场的需求量大。于是，就有了专门炒制“拖酸”茶的茶农。 “拖酸”的茶口感较浓，能给神经较强的刺激。许多人因为熬夜、喝酒、抽烟，味觉变得迟钝，他们会觉得传统正味的茶没有味道，喝“拖酸”茶才有感觉。

二是正酸：传统铁观音所产生的“正酸”，和天气，合理的制作和茶青本身的内质有很大关系，“看青做青”，根据青叶的走水变化适时的调整做青的轻重，控制青叶的发酵轻重;茶叶本身生长环境的合理;制作时的适合的温度和湿度。这“天地人”的合协统一，才能做出一泡上好的铁观音!正酸的茶是很难得的。

青煌酸、正酸、青酸等术语也是茶农们对于高品质铁观音的一种“美称”，书上是没有的，但茶区里面经常听到此术语。其实，这些术语就是对传统正做的高档次铁观音的一种肯定，一般是拨(消)青做法的高档茶(其他做法很少出现)，称呼不一样，但意思是一样的，能达到正酸、青酸的茶，其原料、工艺、天气等都是无可挑剔的，所谓的酸，其实就是铁观音韵味达到极点后一种特殊味道的感官体现，由此酸的铁观音，一般泡到几遍后就会呈现花韵，最后才出现明显的观音韵，这就说明前面几泡的酸味是观音韵味的浓缩，也就是精华，是铁观音极品的表现。而其它非正常的酸，其特点很单一，没有香，也没有韵，从头到尾都是单一的“酸”，茶汤滑滑的，平平淡淡，没有变化，这就是歪酸，上不了台面的茶。

安溪铁观音青皇口味也就是闽南话中说的“煌口香”。也就是音韵的味道。它是一种花香和酸果香很好的融合在一起的一种味道!因其闻有酸，很多不懂茶者以为是歪酸的，也就是拖酸的!此种茶做的好的有清爽的青香和酸香或清酸味，做的不好的有生硬的臭青味或闷青味或臭闷酸味!这类茶因为走水不彻底，发酵度较低，即使有高的，也是假高。因此此类茶冲泡时要快冲快出，否者汤色偏深水偏涩苦!此茶有开盖夺香之势，很容易吸引刚接触观音的人!此类茶极不耐放。在自然气候下，不到一个月就香水全消。一般都在冰柜速冻保存!

英语翻译

Anxi Tieguanyin is one of the top ten famous teas in China. Its production is rigorous and skilled. Anxi Tieguanyin combines the production methods of green tea and black tea. Fragrant and has the reputation of "green leaves and red border". Today, the editor will introduce to you the four major production methods of the legendary Anxi Tieguanyin: stir fry, turn green, reduce green, and delay!

1. Stir-fried tea: Stir-fried green tea at 11-12 noon the next day after picking green tea. The hairy tea is round and knotted, the color is dark and green, the aroma is strong, with the fragrance of orchids, the taste is mellow but slightly astringent, and the sound is clear. , The soup is golden.

2. Re-green production method: stir-fried green (cooked) at 15-18 o'clock the next day after picking the green, the hair tea sticks are tightly knotted, the color is green, the aroma is strong, the taste is mellow, the sound is clear, with peanuts and sweet and sour taste , But the taste is lighter, the soup is golden, green and yellow.

3. The preparation method of pulling (eliminating) green: stir-fried green (finishing) at 22-24 o'clock the next day after picking green, the bar shape is tighter, the color is dark green, the fragrance is high, it is more mellow and has a rhyme, with a sweet and sour taste, The soup is yellow or dark golden.

4. Tow-green production method: Stir-fried greens at 6-10 o'clock on the third day after picking greens (finish greens), the shape of the Maocha is not heavy and knotted, the color is dark green, the aroma is high, not pure enough, the phonology is light, the taste is mellow and the taste is more Strongly sour and rancid, the tea soup turns orange-yellow after long soaking, and the bottom of the leaf is firm and dark green.

Among them, the one that is closest to traditional craftsmanship is Zheng Frying, and the most common one is delaying:

Zheng stir-frying method: According to the traditional Tieguanyin production process, the method of stir-frying is basically based on the traditional Tieguanyin production process. The stir-frying method has the characteristics of traditional Tieguanyin. The dry tea sand has obvious green color. The soup is yellow-green, bright and transparent because of the full water. The soup has a smooth, lively and thick flavor. The first-class camellia and fruit are rich, the Guanyin rhyme is obvious, and the aftertaste is sweet. , The mouth leaves fragrance; the background color of the leaves is yellow-green, shiny, and the film is soft; most Anxi tea farmers keep and drink this kind of craft tea. Therefore, Zhengchao Tieguanyin is suitable for tea customers with a certain age, and it is also suitable for fighting tea. The practice of frying is to shake more and less stall, and shake the green time for a long time and let the stall cool for a short time. The first shake is usually 2-3 minutes, the second shake is 5-10 minutes, and the third shake should be properly mastered. It takes 5-10 minutes for a small time and 20-60 minutes for a long time. Of course, this is not absolute and should vary according to weather and production conditions. Between each shake, the interval is about 1 hour. And the third time to shake the green, shake it until the green air of the tea basically disappears, and the flowers and fruits are fragrant. The tea that is being fried must not exceed noon the next day after the shaking is completed.

Procrastination method: procrastination, why is it called procrastination? It is when Aoba reaches the normal time to finish, but Aoba’s has not yet fully fulfilled the requirements for greening. Therefore, it has to continue to do greens beyond the time, so there is procrastination. The argument. The inability to complete is due to factors such as weather and climate. Slowly this style of tea was formed. To tow, it needs to be equipped with an air conditioner and a dehumidifier to complete it. In this way, shake less and more still, do not shake out water, but stand still to lose water. So there are teas that drag green and sour. The good ones made by this kind of craft have a refreshing green fragrance and sour fragrance or clear sour taste, but the base does not have the rhyme of Tieguanyin, and the bad ones have a harsh green smell or a dull blue smell or a dull sour smell. This type of tea has a low degree of fermentation due to insufficient water consumption, so it must be brewed quickly and quickly. Otherwise, the color of the soup is muddy green, and the soup taste is green and astringent. Also because of inadequate water drainage and low fermentation, this type of tea has a green or dark green film, the leaves are hard, and the green taste is obvious. However, this kind of dry tea has a green color and has the potential to open the lid to grab the fragrance, and it is easy to attract tea visitors who are new to Guanyin. The practice of dragging is to shake less and spread more, the shaking time is short, and the cooling time is long, and it is usually called dehydration. Shake the green for the first time for about 2 minutes, shake for the second time for 2-3 minutes, and shake for the third time for about 3-5 minutes. After the third shake, place the shaken tea in an air-conditioned room and let it stand until the next afternoon until the smell of tea has completely disappeared before starting to stir-fry the tea. Because tea greens stand for a long time and the finishing time is delayed until the evening of the second day, it is called procrastination, also called procrastination.

There is also a more popular saying, according to the acidity, it is divided into procrastinated acid and ortho acid.

Anxi tea farmers have two expressions of acid:

One is sour: in the shaking and standing stages, the producer uses the methods of dragging and sultry to produce "acid"; after kneading and before roasting the tea, the tea ball wrapped in the kneading cloth is allowed to stand still. In the meantime, if the time is not well grasped, "acid" will be produced; in the south wind, the weather will be humid and hot, which is unfavorable to the water dispersion of the green leaves and will also produce "acid". In fact, the formation of "acid" is in the entire process. , Improper control of the green tea fermentation, will produce. These "sour" tastes are actually a rancid taste, which people misunderstand as sour. "Dragging acid" is a kind of tea that has appeared in the Tieguanyin market in recent years that is completely different from the traditional taste. Its fermentation is light, the interval from picking to frying is much longer than that of traditional Tieguanyin, and the taste is strong. The earliest appearance of "drag acid" was that tea farmers made "drag acid" tea due to accidental factors such as mistakes and delays in the process of making Tieguanyin. Unexpectedly, when this kind of tea was put on the market, it was very popular and the market was in great demand. As a result, there are tea farmers who specialize in frying "sour sour" tea. "Sour sour" tea has a strong taste and can stimulate the nerves. Many people have a dull sense of taste due to staying up late, drinking, and smoking. They will feel that the traditional tea has no taste, and they can only feel it when they drink "sour" tea.

The second is the positive acid: the "positive acid" produced by the traditional Tieguanyin has a lot to do with the weather, reasonable production and the inner quality of the tea itself, "see the green to make the green", and adjust it in time according to the changes in the water of the green leaves. The degree of green production is to control the degree of fermentation of green leaves; the growth environment of the tea itself is reasonable; the temperature and humidity are suitable for production. This "heaven, earth and people" unity can make a good Tieguanyin! Sour tea is hard to come by.

Terms such as Qinghuang acid, ortho acid, and blue acid are also a kind of "famous name" for high-quality Tieguanyin by tea farmers, which is not in the books, but this term is often heard in tea districts. In fact, these terms are an affirmation of the high-grade Tieguanyin traditionally made. Generally, it is high-grade tea made by dialing (eliminating) the green method (other methods rarely appear). The title is different, but the meaning is the same, which can achieve The raw materials, craftsmanship, weather, etc. of ortho-acid and blue-sour tea are impeccable. The so-called sourness is actually the sensory manifestation of a special taste after the charm of Tieguanyin reaches its extreme. After a few times, the flower rhyme will appear, and finally the obvious Guanyin rhyme will appear. This shows that the sourness of the first few bubbles is the concentration of the Guanyin rhyme, that is, the essence, which is the performance of Tieguanyin's best quality. Other abnormal acids have a single characteristic, no fragrance or rhyme. They are single "sour" from beginning to end. The tea soup is slippery, flat and unchanging. This is crooked sour and cannot be used on the table. Tea.

The taste of Qinghuang is also the "huangkouxiang" in the Hokkien dialect. That is the taste of phonology. It is a flavor that blends floral and sour fruit very well! Because it smells sour, many people who do not understand tea think it is sour, that is, sour! This kind of tea is good It has a refreshing green fragrance and sour fragrance or a clear sour taste. If it is not done well, it has a stiff smelly green smell or a stuffy blue smell or a stuffy sour taste! This kind of tea has a low degree of fermentation because of incomplete water drainage, even if it has a high degree of fermentation. , Is also a false high. Therefore, this kind of tea should be brewed quickly, or the soup is darker and more astringent and bitter! This tea has the tendency to open the lid and grab the fragrance, and it is easy to attract people who are new to Guanyin! This type of tea is extremely intolerant. In a natural climate, the perfume disappears in less than a month. It is generally quick-frozen and stored in the freezer!