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乌龙茶色香韵味
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相约铁观音茶楼

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Issuing time:2021-09-09 13:52

星期六下午,朋友和我相约安溪铁观音茶楼,希望我能帮她困惑的生活解解惑或者指指路。



卡座里,灯光下,两杯青绿的岳西翠兰摆在我和她面前,茶汤盈盈,我们一边喝着茶一边有一搭没一搭的聊着。从她的断断续续的描叙中,我明白了事情的原委,也渐渐明晰了她的态度和想法。我凝望眼前的杯中茶叶,刚刚倒入开水时,茶叶全部漂浮于水面,过了一会儿,刚刚漂浮在水面的茶叶一部分开始沉入杯底,当再次加入开水时,绝大部分已经落在杯底,只有少量几片在杯中翻滚。我忽然想到"品香茗叙世间冷暖,论茶道观人生沉浮"这幅对联,我告诉她,其实人生和这杯中茶叶一样,只有两种形式:或沉或浮;对待一件事的态度无非和这喝茶一样,只有两种姿势:端起,放下。




道理很多人都懂,但做起来太难。




当杯中茶水续到第三次后,茶味渐渐淡下来。生活何尝不是这样,家庭生活,夫妻关系亦然,日子往往是越过越淡,最后变成一杯寡淡的白开水,可就这白开水才是生活的必须,才是最解渴的饮品。茶亦解渴,甚至更解渴,可你要给自己时间,喝茶喝的不是水,而是滋味,时间长了,甚至喝的都不是茶滋味,而是内心和人生的滋味。不同季节或一日之中不同的时间,对应着不同的茶,像极了生命中或凉或暖的时光。不同的是,生命中的平淡时光占大多数,而心静下来,茶里却总有滋味。《庄子》中说,“水静犹明,而况精神,圣人之心静乎?天地之鉴也,万物之境也”





她笑问,你很懂茶道?我哪懂什么茶道,我出身贫寒,因而无法接触那些顶尖的高级茶叶,即使参加工作后有了经济基础也是如此,平时都是以牛饮为主。但我从学校读书时开始就喜欢看有关论茶的文章,充其量算是喜欢吧。




古往今来,谈茶论道的人很多,从唐陆羽、皎然、封演、卢仝、白居易、皮日休、陆龟蒙到宋蔡襄、欧阳修、苏轼、黄庭坚、赵佶、陆游及明清时的朱权、许次纾、张岱、张源、陆树声、罗禀、袁枚、冒襄以及近代的周作人、梁实秋、林语堂等,都以其人格及文化修养,不断充实和丰富着中国茶道内容。




当代品茗论道者亦不乏人,如吴觉农、庄晚芳、张天福、陈香白、丁文、寇丹、滕军、梁贵林、余悦、林治等,都结合各自特点对中国茶道作了不同程度的诠释。有的简约,有的翔实;有的质朴,有的华丽;都从不同层面揭示出中国茶道的精神实质。可我总认为,不就是个茶吗?何至于弄那么多古里古怪的规矩和道理?我羡慕那些古代驿站上的行者,累了,渴了,找到一个茶肆,花上一文钱,咕咚咕咚喝几口,然后抹抹嘴,跨上马背,绝尘而去。我觉得这才是《指灯录》里赵州和尚“禅茶一味”的真谛。





面对人生,面对生活,我也一样曾困顿于钢筋水泥的丛林中极目远望看不见的山;曾穿梭在熙来攘往的车流人流中游目四顾寻不着的河;曾徘徊在灯红酒绿的酒吧街上无处安放青春;曾驻足于光怪陆离的画廊橱窗外无处安放灵魂。但我总以为身体和心灵,总有一个在路上。在困惑和迷茫中,我和她一样,都在找一个地方:早上会被鸟儿叫醒,睁眼就看见花格窗外风景的地方;午后能在湖边柳树下就着阳光,读一本早就想读的书,喝一道飘满香气的特茗的地方;晚上嗅着丁香,和心爱的人牵着手漫步灰瓦白墙,一举首,月朗星稀,一回眸,便想起戴望舒和他的《雨巷》的地方。其实,她和我一样,找的不止是这样一个地方,更重要找的是那样一种生活。




很多人会说,这不就是一种悠闲的生活方式吗?可现代人整天忙忙碌碌,哪来大把的时间去过这悠闲的生活?在我看来,悠闲与时间无关,悠闲是内心的一种发现,悠闲是生活的一种乐趣,悠闲是生命的一种节奏,拿捏得住轻重缓急,忙而不乱,这是一种境界。因为从容的最大敌人不是外在的紧张生活,而是内在状态的焦虑。《菜根谭》里说:“性躁心粗者,一事无成;心和气平者,百福自集”




我觉得那样的生活,叫读茶。把身体安放在生活里,把心灵交付给读茶,是个不错的选择。杯中茶,席上影,境成最。可能这就是喝茶最美的景况。当读茶遇见生活,把生活的点滴融进茶的芳香,一边读茶一边读生活,这将是一份惊喜,更是一次惊艳。

On Saturday afternoon, my friend and I met in the teahouse, hoping that I could help her to solve her puzzled life or give directions.





In the deck, under the light, two cups of green Yuexi Cuilan were placed in front of me and her, the tea soup was full, and we were chatting with each other while drinking tea. From her intermittent description, I understood the whole story and gradually clarified her attitude and thoughts. I stared at the tea in the cup in front of me. When I just poured boiling water, all the tea leaves floated on the surface of the water. After a while, part of the tea leaves that had just floated on the surface began to sink to the bottom of the cup. When the boiling water was added again, most of the tea leaves were already in the cup. At the bottom, only a few pieces rolled in the cup. Suddenly I thought of the couplet "Taking fragrant tea to describe the warmth of the world, on the ups and downs of life in the tea ceremony". I told her that life is the same as this cup of tea. There are only two forms: ups and downs or ups and downs; attitude towards one thing. It's nothing more than the same as drinking tea, there are only two postures: lift up and put down.




Many people understand the truth, but it is too difficult to do.




When the tea in the cup continued for the third time, the tea taste gradually faded. Isn't life like this, family life, husband and wife relationship are also the same, the days tend to fade away and eventually become a glass of plain water, but this plain water is a must for life, and it is the most thirst-quenching drink. Tea also quenches your thirst, and even more, but you have to give yourself time. Drinking tea is not water, but the taste. After a long time, even the taste of tea is not the taste of tea, but the taste of your heart and life. Different seasons or different times of the day correspond to different teas, which are like cool or warm times in life. The difference is that the ordinary time in life accounts for the majority, but when the heart calms down, there is always a taste in the tea. "Zhuangzi" said, "The water is still and clear, but the spirit is still, the heart of the saint is quiet? The world is also the lesson of the world, and the realm of all things is also"





She smiled and asked, you know the tea ceremony well? I don’t know any tea ceremony. I came from a poor background, so I couldn’t get in touch with the top-notch teas, even if I had a financial foundation after I started working, I usually drink cattle. But since I was in school, I have liked to read articles about tea. I like it at best.




Throughout the ages, many people have talked about tea theory, from Tang Luyu, Jiao Ran, Feng Yan, Lu Tong, Bai Juyi, Pi Rixiu, Lu Guimeng to Song Caixiang, Ouyang Xiu, Su Shi, Huang Tingjian, Zhao Ji, Lu You, and Zhu in Ming and Qing Dynasties. Quan, Xu Cishu, Zhang Dai, Zhang Yuan, Lu Shusheng, Luo Jin, Yuan Mei, Maoxiang, as well as modern Zhou Zuoren, Liang Shiqiu, Lin Yutang, etc., have continuously enriched and enriched the content of Chinese tea ceremony with their personalities and cultural accomplishments.




There are no shortage of contemporary tea and Taoists, such as Wu Juonong, Zhuang Wanfang, Zhang Tianfu, Chen Xiangbai, Ding Wen, Kou Dan, Teng Jun, Liang Guilin, Yu Yue, Lin Zhi, etc., who have combined their own characteristics to explain the Chinese tea ceremony to varying degrees. . Some are simple, some are informative; some are simple and some are gorgeous; all reveal the spiritual essence of Chinese tea ceremony from different levels. But I always think, isn’t it just tea? Why do you have so many weird rules and principles? I envied those walkers in the ancient inn. Tired and thirsty, I found a tea shop, spent a penny, took a few sips, wiped my mouth, stepped on the horseback, and left. I think this is the essence of the Zhaozhou monk's "blind taste of Zen tea" in "Shidenglu".





Facing life, facing life, I was also trapped in the reinforced concrete jungle looking at an invisible mountain; I once shuttled in the bustling traffic and people, and looked around the river that I couldn’t find; I wandered in the bustling bar street. There is nowhere to put youth; there is nowhere to put souls outside the bizarre gallery window. But I always think that there is always one on the way, body and mind. In perplexity and confusion, like her, I am looking for a place: I will be woken up by a bird in the morning, and I will see the scenery outside the lattice window when I open my eyes; I can read a book in the afternoon under the willow tree by the lake in the sunshine. I have long wanted to read a book, a place to drink a special tea filled with fragrance; in the evening, smelling lilac, walking with my beloved one on the gray tiled white wall, with a glance, the moon is bright and the stars are dazzling, and when I look back, I think of Dai Wangshuhe The place of his "Rain Alley". In fact, like me, she is not only looking for such a place, but more importantly, looking for that kind of life.




Many people would say, isn’t this just a leisurely lifestyle? But modern people are so busy all day, how can they spend a lot of time in this leisurely life? In my opinion, leisure has nothing to do with time, leisure is a kind of inner discovery, leisure is a pleasure of life, leisure is a rhythm of life, it is a state of priority, busy but not chaotic. Because the greatest enemy of calmness is not the external stressful life, but the internal anxiety. "Cai Gen Tan" says: "Those who are irritable and innocent will do nothing; those who are in peace of mind will be collected by Pak Fook."




I think that life is called tea reading. Putting the body in life and entrusting the soul to tea reading is a good choice. A cup of tea, the shadow on the table, the scene becomes the most. Maybe this is the most beautiful situation for drinking tea. When tea reading meets life, it will be a surprise and a surprise to melt the bit of life into the fragrance of tea, and read life while reading tea.


Article classification: 铁观音
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