安溪铁观音：清澈的，素淡的

一个城市节奏的徐疾，我一直认为和这个城市的风物大有关系，是这一风物构成了人们生活的习惯，成为一种共享的俗情，从初见端倪到逐渐养成，根深蒂固，千百年过去，累积厚实，就再也改变不了了。散落在这个县城无数的茶社、茶桌、茶器，人们围坐着，一泡泡地喝茶——他们不像文人说品茶，但一盅茶渐渐入喉，眉头就舒展开了，接下来就会评说：这泡茶如何如何。还有的人只是喝，不评说，但内心已经有了判断。来这里的行者，公干的、雅玩的，都会被邀请喝茶，沉浸在这清香的汁液里。人在此间，心绪渐渐澄澈起来了。

从久远来看，人和草木是一个样的，只不过人是会行走的植物，草木却是屹立不移的——除非遇上不测。人被植物包裹着，在植物的绿荫之下，仰望高过头顶的树冠。每一株植物都有它的价值，被万物灵长的人评说着、运用着，或是视觉，或是味觉，那些作为象征的植物，成为某种格调或境界的替代品。不过我没有发现文人们把茶树上升到精神的高度，我没见到茶树开花的绚烂，对于茶树的品相，在植物中也属一般，是不动声色的那种类型，有别于摇曳多姿的杨柳。物尽其能——在不同的土壤里，草木共同汲取日月精华，却显露出差异，一些植物远去了，一些植物却如影随形，与人交集，成了俗常日子里的迷恋。

每一天都可以在街旁巷屋看到熟练沏茶的手。他坐在正中的位置上，指腕娴熟，动作相扣，流畅中，每个人的面前都一盅波光，清香袅袅而起。沏茶的人忽然有事告辞，座中又有一个人坐在这个位置上，继续为大家沏茶。应该说在这个茶乡里，绝大多数人都是沏茶的好手——这是共同拥有的公共化的手法，由于茶的存在，人们谙熟，就像汉唐时代，任何一个人都可以拈起笔作书，视同寻常。不谙此道的外乡人也想试试，却不料拿捏的不是地方，打翻了茶瓯泼洒了茶水，一副心惊肉跳的模样。相比于茶艺表演，平素的沏茶更趋于简单，没有那么多的好看姿态，动作的幅度也小得多——表演是生活的偶然，更多的生活是非表演的，要不生活就更辛苦。正是这些简单无奇的手上状态，使生活简淡地延宕下去。

如果不是特地地开辟茶园，使它们在集结中形成规模，我们恐怕不会留意一株在旷野上和其他草木共长的茶树。《茶经》曾认为茶树不会对土壤有太多的挑剔，可生于黄土之上，砾石中，如有幸于烂石间则更佳，加上云雾氤氲，雨水丰沛，就能生出不同寻常的芽片。精品的茶总是不会多的，因为精品是需要条件的，甚至对条件有着苛刻的要求——美好不是随便可以产生的，这和人十分相似，可是又往往奈何奈何。许多美好的形成是与火有关的，在一些地带，远古时期是火山多次喷溢岩浆之地，应和茶树生长的那些元素，也就不费气力，天生天养也能不同寻常。那些耗费人工打理的茶园，有谁能以人工之力抵达天力，不由使人萌生出一缕深深的宿命感——那些先天的、非人力可为之的，有时在一个人身上、在一方水土之间，就只是差了那么一点点，往往是差了那么一点点，一泡茶的差距就永远不可缩短。

每一泡茶都渴望被饮用。和陶泥就于火成为紫砂壶不同，茶是通过水来舒展身躯散发韵味的。井水、泉水、雨水、雪水、江河水，天下之水何其多也。一个心存细腻的人，总是要寻找与茶默契的水种，让一泡茶的色香味韵都出来。主人是用山泉水给我们泡茶的。山泉在远处，林壑深幽，落花满径，禽声上下，清澈敞亮。主人是用木炭来煮水的——当年陆羽认为，木炭煮水最佳。既然有条件，还是依古法行事，让整个过程如古风拂过。在泉水二沸连珠时，他及时将水器提起，乘势冲入盖瓯中，再轻轻用瓯盖刮走泡沫，把瓯盖盖紧。接下来就是关公巡城了，每个人面前的小茶盅，已是清香浮动。古法泡茶总是有太多的讲究，毕竟古人有更多的闲情，更多的对于细节的追求，以至于把这种植物与众不同的特色，充分展现。一泡茶遇上讲究的喝茶人，不亚于伯牙遇上钟子期。

古人是不赞成多人聚堆喝茶的，以为人多则喧哗，则嘈杂，不如饮酒了。按古人的意思，一个人喝茶有幽独之趣，两个人喝茶则气氛生出，三个人喝茶别有会心，再多就不宜了。茶与酒品性不同，酒是向上的，茶在调节人的情调则是向下的，清淡平和，素心同调，算是喝茶的高境。从旧日画图中可以看到古人对于茶境的选择，古道芒鞋，溪山笻杖，一副今夕何夕的落寞神情。松下煎茶，看风竹相吞炉烟方袅，山斋篝灯，冷月清寒，只是静静地喝，话反而无多了。风雅都有相似处，抚琴和喝茶，都有宜与不宜的约定，是不可轻慢和悖逆的。这类人或多或少有些洁癖，觉得不能漫不经心地对待一盅茶，那种一仰脖一饮而尽者总是有轻率之嫌，是抚摸不到茶的灵动之气的。我倾向每一次喝茶都要有个仪式，这个仪式不是外在的、给人看的，而是在自己的内部，持恭敬的、庄重的态度。“物须见少方为贵”——记得这是袁枚说的，凡物因为少而可贵——那时没有这么多茶叶、茶庄，这么多茶赛、茶包装。茶被锡箔紧紧包裹着，愣头愣脑，朴素村气。泡茶时不慎掉落一粒，急忙弯腰捡拾起来

——手工之物为我们所稀罕。

从茶都安溪回来，一同带回来不少的茶——在这产茶之地，再没有比临别赠茶更为自然的举动了，机制的手工的，清香型浓香型的，在人们道别的热情中，悄然安睡。晨起沏茶，模仿着这几日看到的动作，虽然做得生涩，茶香还是出来了。恍惚中春景澄明，王雎鼓翼，关关嘤嘤；仓鹒跃动，草木自馨。一个人对于草莽原野的向往，在浮动的茶香里，伸展开来。

The Xu Ji of a city rhythm, I always think it has a lot to do with the customs of this city. It is this customs that constitutes the habits of people’s lives and becomes a shared customs. A hundred years have passed, and the accumulation is solid, and it can no longer be changed. There are countless tea houses, tea tables, and tea utensils scattered in this county town. People sit around and drink tea in a bubble-they don’t taste tea like the literati said, but when the cup of tea gradually enters their throats, their brows are stretched out. Will comment: how is this tea brewing. Others just drink and don't comment, but they already have judgments in their hearts. Travelers who come here, those who work for business and those who play elegantly, will be invited to drink tea and immerse themselves in this fragrant juice. People are here, and their minds gradually become clear.

From a long-term perspective, people and plants are the same, except that people are plants that can walk, but plants and trees stand unmovably—unless unexpected. Man is surrounded by plants, under the shade of plants, looking up at the canopy above his head. Every plant has its value. It is judged and used by the primates of all things, or visually or tastefully. Those plants that serve as symbols become substitutes for a certain style or realm. However, I did not find that the literati raised the tea tree to the height of the spirit. I did not see the splendor of the tea tree. The appearance of the tea tree is also average among plants. It is a quiet type, which is different from swaying. The willow of the posture. Do what you can—in different soils, plants and trees absorb the essence of the sun and the moon, but they show differences. Some plants are gone, but some plants follow and interact with people, becoming a fascination in ordinary days.

Every day, you can see the hands of skilled tea in the alleys. He sits in the middle, with skillful fingers and wrists, and his movements are interlocking and fluent. There is a wave of light in front of everyone, and the fragrance is curling up. The tea maker suddenly said goodbye, and there was another person in the seat sitting in this position, continuing to make tea for everyone. It should be said that in this tea village, the vast majority of people are masters of tea-this is a common method of publicization. Because of the existence of tea, people are familiar with it, just like in the Han and Tang Dynasties, anyone can pick up a pen. Writing a book is regarded as ordinary. Outsiders who didn't know this way wanted to try it, but they didn't know where they were. They overturned the tea cup and spilled tea, giving them a frightened look. Compared with tea art performances, the usual tea making tends to be simpler, there are not so many attractive gestures, and the range of movements is much smaller-performance is an accident of life, more life is non-performance, or life is even more Hard. It is these simple and inexperienced hands that make life simply postpone.

If we hadn't set up tea gardens specifically to make them scale up in the assembly, we would probably not pay attention to a tea tree that grows together with other vegetation in the wilderness. "The Classic of Tea" once believed that tea trees would not be too picky about the soil. They can grow on loess, in gravel, or even better if they are lucky enough to be among the rotten rocks. With clouds and mist and abundant rain, they can give birth to unusual Of bud slices. There are always not many high-quality teas, because high-quality products require conditions, and even have harsh requirements-beauty cannot be produced casually, which is very similar to humans, but it is often helpless. Many beautiful formations are related to fire. In some areas, in ancient times, volcanoes spewed magma many times. Those elements that matched the growth of tea trees didn't take much effort. Naturally, it can also be unusual. Those tea gardens that consume manual care, who can reach Tianli with artificial power, can not help but give birth to a deep sense of fatalism-those innate and non-human can do it, sometimes in a person, There is only a slight difference between water and soil on one side, and often the difference is such a little bit. The gap between making tea can never be shortened.

Every bubble tea is eager to be drunk. Unlike clay pots that become purple clay pots by fire, tea is used to stretch the body and exude charm through water. Well water, spring water, rain water, snow water, river water, there is so much water in the world. A person with a delicate heart is always looking for a kind of water that is tacitly compatible with tea, so that the color, fragrance and rhyme of a tea can come out. The host used mountain spring water to make tea for us. The mountain spring is in the distance, the forest is deep and secluded, the flowers fall all over the path, and the sound of birds goes up and down, clear and bright. The owner used charcoal to boil water-Lu Yu thought that charcoal boiled water was the best. Since there are conditions, we still act in accordance with the old law and let the whole process pass by. When the spring water was boiling again, he lifted the water tank in time, took advantage of the momentum, and rushed into the lid, then gently scraped off the foam with the lid, and closed the lid tightly. The next step is Guan Gong's tour of the city. The small tea cup in front of everyone is already scented. The ancient method of making tea always has too much attention. After all, the ancients had more leisure and more pursuit of details, so that the distinctive characteristics of this plant are fully displayed. A tea-making meets a particular tea drinker, as much as Yu Boya meets Zhong Ziqi.

The ancients did not approve of many people gathering together to drink tea. They thought that if there were many people, it would be noisy and noisy. It would be better to drink. According to the ancients, drinking tea by one person has a unique taste, while drinking tea for two people creates an atmosphere. Drinking tea for three people is very knowledgeable. The quality of tea is different from that of wine. Wine is upward, while tea is downward in regulating people's mood. It is light and peaceful, with the same heart and heart. From the old paintings, you can see the ancient people's choice of the tea scene, the ancient road mang shoes, the xishan night stick, and the lonely look of today and night. Panasonic sencha, watching the wind and bamboo, swallowing the smoke of the furnace, the bon lamp in the mountain house, and the cold moon and cold, just drink quietly, but there is not much to talk. Fengya has similarities. Playing the piano and drinking tea have both suitable and unfavorable agreements. You should not be scornful and rebellious. This kind of people are more or less obsessed with cleanliness and feel that they can't treat a cup of tea carelessly. Those who lift their necks and drink them are always frivolous, and they can't touch the agile air of tea. I tend to have a ritual every time I drink tea. This ritual is not external or for others to see, but a respectful and solemn attitude within myself. "Things need to see the few and the side is expensive"-remember this is what Yuan Mei said, all things are precious because they are few-there were not so many teas, tea houses, so many tea competitions, and tea packaging at that time. The tea was tightly wrapped in tin foil, staring blankly, plain and simple. I accidentally dropped a pill while making tea and hurriedly bent over to pick it up

——Handmade objects are rare for us.

When I came back from Anxi, the tea capital, I brought back a lot of tea together. In this tea-producing place, there is no more natural move than parting tea. The machine-made, hand-crafted, fragrant and strong-flavored ones are farewell to people. In the enthusiasm, sleep quietly. I made tea in the morning, imitating the movements I saw in the past few days, although it was jerky, the fragrance of tea still came out. In a trance, the scenery of spring is clear, Wang Ju, with wings, Guan Guanqian; Cangbo is leaping, and the vegetation is happy. A person's yearning for the grassy wilderness stretches out in the floating tea fragrance.