传统正味铁观音

年末岁初，正是茶商备货时。据了解，厦门、泉州、漳州一带的茶店为春节储备的茶以传统型的铁观音居多，因为消费者茶杯里茶的汤色正在悄然发生变化，从浅转深，从淡转浓，从绿豆色转金黄色，口感也越来越醇厚，传统型的铁观音的回归，精制茶的热销已经成为闽南茶市的新亮点。

传统茶的热销，尤其是精制茶、陈茶的受宠，有媒体认为是安溪对抗普洱茶“入侵”的举措。普洱茶举全省之力，以“陈为贵”为卖点迅速扩张到沿海城市，入市闽南是不争的事实。然而，安溪回归传统茶的根本原因是由乌龙茶的自然属性和社会属性决定的。

乌龙茶属半发酵茶，既有绿茶的清香，红茶的醇厚，普洱的甘滑。特别是区别于我国数千个茶品种的观音韵，是铁观音的精华，是安溪茶的灵魂，是使人一饮上瘾欲罢不能的“精灵”，也是人与人之间沟通关系中永远的话题。安溪铁观音源于得天独厚的自然气候条件，优良纯正的茶叶品种，精湛独特的采制工艺，具有独特的地域性、专一性、排它性。铁观音最显著品质特征是具有天然花香和深沉喉韵。为什么有的老茶客觉得喝不到以前那种感觉呢？

2000年以来，市场上出现了清香型茶热销的态势，这与安溪茶北上争取绿茶消费群体有直接关系。之后，“青酸”茶盛极一时，曾经一度出现了以“酸”为尺度衡量是否高档茶的现象，与市场追捧带酸的“清汤绿水”、盲目跟风时尚有关系。

近年来，随着人们对食品品质的关注，崇尚天然、绿色，对传统方法生产、加工的种植业养殖业的农副产品的喜爱，如“农家禽”“野生菜”，对茶叶品质的要求也悄然产生变化，懂茶的人日益增多，开始重视茶的天然花香，口感的纯厚、回甘的程度，喉韵的感觉、保健的功效，传统铁观音的回归是正本清源，历史的必然。而长期在东南亚、日本畅销的精制茶在国内的复兴，是茶叶走向标准化、大众化、国际化的重要标志。

台湾茶叶学者在中华茶文化安溪铁观音健康高峰论坛上指出，台湾最大的失误就是把台茶全部轻发酵、清香化，最后导致台湾茶市场的萎缩。90年代以来，我们引进台湾的先进机械设备，对改进外形、提高效率方面起了很大的作用，但也出现盲目仿台茶及重外形、轻内质的做法。我们茶产业如何保持自己的特色，发挥市场优势，传承祖先留下来的传统工艺，在适应市场的同时引导市场，一直是茶业界探索的问题。传统农产品的精致化、工业化，必须以保持其原有的风格品质为前提。正如国家茶叶质量检测检验中心原主任骆少君指出：特种茶的传统加工技术是一种不可多得的资源，必须加以认真的保护和传承，不可为时尚和浮躁而断送在我们这一代人的手中。

安溪铁观音国家标准样，分清香型、浓香型和陈香型三大类。在市场上出现的以清香型否定浓香型或以浓香型否定清香型的观点都是错误的。我们要纠正的是偏离传统工艺的如所谓“拖酸”(酸味实为馊味)等做法。浓香型是在传统工艺加工的毛茶基础上经过一定程度的火候烘焙再加工，容易存储且不必冷藏保鲜，在品质上口感更醇厚、耐泡，在保健上暖胃润肠明显，而陈香茶降火效果尤佳。

At the end of the year and the beginning of the year, it is the time when tea merchants stock up. It is understood that most tea shops in Xiamen, Quanzhou, and Zhangzhou reserve traditional Tieguanyin tea for the Spring Festival, because the color of tea in the teacup of consumers is quietly changing, from light to dark, from light to thick, and from mung bean color. Turning to golden yellow, the taste is becoming more and more mellow, the return of the traditional Tieguanyin, the hot sale of refined tea has become a new bright spot in the southern Fujian tea market.

The popularity of traditional teas, especially refined teas and aging teas, is considered by the media to be Anxi’s measures against the "invasion" of Pu'er tea. It is an indisputable fact that Pu'er tea has used the power of the whole province to rapidly expand to coastal cities with "Chen is precious" as its selling point. However, the fundamental reason for Anxi's return to traditional tea is determined by the natural and social attributes of Oolong tea. picture

Oolong tea is a semi-fermented tea, with the fragrance of green tea, the mellowness of black tea, and the sweetness of Pu'er. In particular, the Guanyin rhyme, which is different from thousands of tea varieties in our country, is the essence of Tieguanyin, the soul of Anxi tea, the "elf" that makes people addicted to a drink, and an eternal topic in the communication relationship between people. . Anxi Tieguanyin originates from the unique natural climatic conditions, fine and pure tea varieties, exquisite and unique extraction technology, and has unique regional, specificity and exclusivity. Tieguanyin's most significant quality feature is its natural floral fragrance and deep throat rhyme. Why do some old tea customers feel that they can't drink it like before?

Since 2000, there has been a trend of selling fragrant tea on the market, which has a direct relationship with Anxi Tea's northward fight for green tea consumers. After that, "green acid" tea flourished for a while, and there was once a phenomenon of using "acid" as the scale to measure high-grade tea, which was related to the market's pursuit of sour "clear soup and green water" and blindly following the trend.

In recent years, as people pay attention to the quality of food, advocating natural, green, and love for agricultural and sideline products produced and processed by traditional methods, such as "farm and poultry" and "wild vegetables", the requirements for the quality of tea are also Changes have quietly occurred. The number of people who understand tea is increasing, and they are beginning to pay attention to the natural floral fragrance of tea, the purity of the taste, the degree of sweetness, the feeling of throat rhyme, and the efficacy of health care. The return of the traditional Tieguanyin is the source of the original and the inevitable history. The domestic revival of refined tea, which has long been popular in Southeast Asia and Japan, is an important symbol of tea standardization, popularization and internationalization.

Taiwanese tea scholars pointed out at the Tieguanyin Health Summit Forum on Chinese Tea Culture in Anxi that Taiwan’s biggest mistake is to lightly ferment and deodorize all Taiwanese tea, which eventually led to the shrinking of the Taiwanese tea market. Since the 1990s, we have introduced Taiwan’s advanced machinery and equipment, which has played a significant role in improving the appearance and efficiency. However, there have also been practices that blindly imitate Taiwan tea and emphasize the appearance and lighten the internal quality. How our tea industry maintains its own characteristics, makes use of market advantages, inherits the traditional craftsmanship left by our ancestors, and guides the market while adapting to the market has always been a question that the tea industry explores. The refinement and industrialization of traditional agricultural products must be based on maintaining their original style and quality. As Luo Shaojun, the former director of the National Tea Quality Inspection and Inspection Center, pointed out: The traditional processing technology of special tea is a rare resource and must be carefully protected and inherited. It must not be ruined in the hands of our generation for fashion and impetuousness.

Anxi Tieguanyin national standard samples are divided into three categories: fresh fragrance, strong fragrance and aged fragrance. The views on the market that deny the fragrance type with the fragrance type or the fragrance type with the fragrance type are all wrong. What we want to correct is the deviation from the traditional craftsmanship, such as the so-called "sour sourness" (sour taste is really rotten) and other practices. Luzhou-flavored tea is processed by traditional craftsmanship after a certain degree of heat baking and reprocessing. It is easy to store and does not need to be refrigerated to keep it fresh. In terms of quality, it has a more mellow taste and resistance to foaming. It warms the stomach and moisturizes the intestines. The fire effect is particularly good.