浓香型铁观音

浓香型铁观音，

色泽明亮，香气浓郁，口味甘醇，

有着三百年多年的历史。

安溪铁观音香“浓”之路越走越宽阔。

那么，一泡好的浓香型铁观音是怎么炼成的？

选材：高山传统正味

安溪一位有着30年烘焙经验的王师傅认为，烘焙浓香铁观音用的原料是清香型（正味）铁观音。所选清香型铁观音必须是传统制作的高山茶，茶叶冲泡后叶底要均匀。选好清香型（正味）铁观音是烘焙高品质浓香型铁观音的基础。高山茶叶片更肥厚，所含元素更丰富，用传统方法制作的清香型（正味）铁观音，无论烘焙多久，都不会散发异味。

看来，要加工好浓香铁观音，还要有一套过硬的清香铁观音鉴定本领，那如何鉴别传统正味的清香型铁观音呢？

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清香型铁观音冲泡两三遍后，叶底全部泛黄，如果叶底或有部分叶底仍是青绿色，焙到熟透所需时间，比叶底均匀泛黄的传统炒制茶多一倍以上。而且烘到一定时间，会有异味，且青黄两种叶片掺杂着烘，味更杂，所以选材时，不能仅看外观，一定要冲泡看叶底。

挑选烘焙原材料时，还倾向新枞茶树的茶叶，且只烘焙春、秋两季茶。新枞茶茶元素比老枞活跃，烘焙出来的茶叶，香气更加浓郁。

每年春茶、秋茶大量上市期间，做茶师傅还要采购大量的清香（正味）铁观音，去除茶梗、老叶、红片等杂物，再把同季、同级的茶叶进行拼配处理，留备茶闲时烘焙。

烘焙：厚度、温度、适度

原料准备好之后，烘焙就开始了。

王师傅从事先预热十几分钟的烘焙箱里，取出一张张烘筛，把茶叶倾倒下去，轻轻摊匀。“铺茶讲究厚薄适中”，较常用的16层烘焙箱，每层铺2-2.5斤茶，薄筛烘焙，受火均匀，且速度快，保证成品滋味醇正。太厚则受火不均，茶叶杂味蒸发较慢，且容易余积，影响醇度。

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“烘焙分三个阶段，去水分、去杂味、焙香味。”去除水分是烘焙第一步；去杂味对隔年清香型茶或等级较低茶尤为重要；焙香味，要掌握好温度，烘焙时间，一般分成轻、中、足火三种类型，温度分别在100-120度、115-135度、125-145度之间。

根据多年实践，结合烘焙过程中的温度变化，总结出三种烘焙方法——顺焙、加温焙、反焙。顺焙恒温，分一次或两次完成，因为每提高一次温度，就蒸发一次香气，所以顺焙最保香，适合品质高的当季传统清香型铁观音；加温焙要先调好一定温度，烘焙一段时间后，再提高温度，直至烘去涩味，茶叶火味较浓；反焙是先高温，焙去异味、杂味，焙出火香味，再降温慢烘，使茶叶中的各种成分完全释放，最后加温烘出火香、米香味，适合隔年茶和偏青茶。

试样：颜色、汤水、香气

那么要烘焙到什么程度，才能出炉？烘焙具体的温度、时间并不完全固定，在烘焙过程中要不断试茶样，直至试到自己认可。

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因为加工者水平、偏好、经验各不相同，茶叶质量也有差异，判断茶叶烘焙工序是否完成，也没统一标准。一般情况下，要焙到味清水亮，茶汤回甘、顺滑，不青不涩，完全熟透。

如果没有达到加工者的要求，则要适当改变温度或者延长烘焙时间。高温提香不宜长，否则火味会太浓；低温保水也不宜长，否则水会空。根据试样情况，再对烘箱温度进行调节。通常烘焙时间越长，试样时茶叶浸泡时间也要越长。

制茶师傅们焙茶像照料子女一样细心，每次离开烘焙车间，都交待值班工人，注意时间、温度，到点叫他来试样。三更半夜、大清早，吃饭时间，只要到取样试茶时间，他准时到车间。这还不够，至关重要的收尾提温，他也亲自操作。浓香铁观音加工之辛苦或许莫过于此。

保存：自冷、常焙、提升

烘焙结束后，就要进行摊凉冷却、包装保存。

将成茶从烘焙箱里倾倒出来，摊开放在通风处自然冷却。自然冷却，效果最好，最保香。冷却时间也须注意，不宜太长，凉了就收，否则再吸入空气中的水分，会影响火候效果。千万不能为了快速冷却，用电风扇散热。另外，判断是否完全冷却，须轻轻用手或脸贴近成茶去感受，不能频繁用手触摸。

倘若浓香铁观音要保存多年，就要经常重焙保质。一般情况下，每年都要进行一次，这还要结合茶叶的具体情况，就像热冷饭一样。

Strong fragrance Tieguanyin,

Bright color, rich aroma, mellow taste,

It has a history of more than three hundred years.

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Anxi Tieguanyin incense "strong" road is getting wider and wider.

So, how is a good brewed strong-scented Tieguanyin made?

Material selection: traditional alpine taste

A master Wang, who has 30 years of baking experience in Anxi, believes that the raw material used for baking strong-flavored Tieguanyin is the fragrance type (true flavor) Tieguanyin. The selected fragrance type Tieguanyin must be traditionally produced high mountain tea, and the bottom of the leaves should be uniform after the tea is brewed. Choosing a good fragrance (positive taste) Tieguanyin is the basis for baking high-quality strong-flavor Tieguanyin. The leaves of alpine tea are thicker and contain more elements. The traditional method of making Tieguanyin with a fresh fragrance (positive taste) will not give off peculiar smell no matter how long it is baked.

It seems that in order to process the strong-scented Tieguanyin, one must have a set of excellent identification skills for the fragrance of Tieguanyin. How to identify the traditional and authentic Tieguanyin?

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After being brewed two or three times, the bottom of the leaves will turn yellow. If the bottom of the leaf or part of the bottom of the leaf is still turquoise, the time required for roasting to ripen is longer than that of the traditional fried tea whose bottom is evenly yellowed. more than double. Moreover, after baking for a certain period of time, there will be peculiar smell, and the two kinds of green and yellow leaves are mixed with baking, and the taste is more mixed. Therefore, when selecting materials, you must not only look at the appearance, but also look at the bottom of the leaves after brewing.

When selecting roasting raw materials, we also tend to tea leaves from the new fir tea tree, and only roast spring and autumn teas. The elements of the new fir tea are more active than those of the old fir, and the roasted tea leaves have a stronger aroma.

Every year when spring tea and autumn tea are on the market in large quantities, tea masters have to purchase a large amount of Tieguanyin with fragrance (true flavor), remove tea stalks, old leaves, red flakes and other sundries, and then mix teas of the same season and grade. Handle and keep the tea ready for baking.

Baking: Thickness, Temperature, Moderate

Once the ingredients are ready, the baking begins.

Master Wang took out the baking sieves from the baking box that had been preheated for ten minutes in advance, poured out the tea leaves, and spread them evenly. "The thickness of the tea should be moderate." Compared with the commonly used 16-layer baking box, 2-2.5 catties of tea is spread on each layer, and it is baked with a thin sieve. If it is too thick, the fire will be uneven, and the smell of tea leaves will evaporate slowly, and it is easy to accumulate, which will affect the body.

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"Baking is divided into three stages, removing moisture, removing miscellaneous flavors, and roasting flavor." Removing moisture is the first step in baking; removing miscellaneous flavors is particularly important for the next year's fragrant tea or tea of lower grade; for roasting flavor, it is necessary to master the temperature. The baking time is generally divided into three types: light, medium and full fire, and the temperature is between 100-120 degrees, 115-135 degrees, and 125-145 degrees respectively.

Based on years of practice, combined with the temperature changes during the roasting process, three roasting methods have been summed up - smooth roasting, heating roasting, and reverse roasting. Smooth roasting at a constant temperature is done in one or two times. Because every time the temperature is raised, the aroma will evaporate once, so smooth roasting is the most fragrant and suitable for high-quality seasonal traditional fragrance Tieguanyin; heating and roasting must first adjust a certain temperature , after baking for a period of time, then increase the temperature until the astringency is removed, and the tea leaves have a strong fire flavor; reverse baking is to first heat at a high temperature, remove the peculiar smell and miscellaneous taste, and bake out the fire fragrance, and then cool down and bake slowly, so that the various The ingredients are completely released, and finally heated and baked to produce the aroma of fire and rice, which is suitable for tea in the next year and green tea.

Sample: color, soup, aroma

So how far do you have to bake it before it comes out of the oven? The specific baking temperature and time are not completely fixed. During the baking process, you should continue to test tea samples until you find your own approval.

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Because the level, preference, and experience of processors vary, as well as the quality of tea leaves, there is no unified standard for judging whether the tea roasting process is complete. Under normal circumstances, it should be roasted until the taste is clear, the tea soup is sweet, smooth, not green or astringent, and completely cooked.

If it does not meet the requirements of the processor, it is necessary to appropriately change the temperature or prolong the baking time. The high temperature should not be long, otherwise the fire will be too strong; the low temperature water retention should not be long, otherwise the water will be empty. Adjust the oven temperature according to the condition of the sample. Generally, the longer the roasting time, the longer the tea soaking time in the sample.

The tea masters roast tea as carefully as taking care of their children. Every time they leave the roasting workshop, they tell the workers on duty, pay attention to the time and temperature, and ask him to come to sample at the time. In the middle of the night, early in the morning, meal time, as long as it's time to sample the tea, he will arrive at the workshop on time. This is not enough, the crucial finishing touch, he also handles it himself. Perhaps nothing is more difficult than this.

Preservation: self-cooling, constant baking, lifting

After baking, it should be cooled, packaged and stored.

Pour the finished tea out of the baking box and spread it out in a ventilated place to cool naturally. Natural cooling, the best effect, the most fragrant. The cooling time should also be paid attention to, it should not be too long, and it should be closed when it is cold, otherwise the moisture in the air will be inhaled, which will affect the heating effect. Never use an electric fan to dissipate heat for fast cooling. In addition, to judge whether it is completely cooled, you must gently touch the tea with your hands or face, and not touch it frequently.

If the fragrant Tieguanyin is to be preserved for many years, it must be re-baked frequently to ensure its quality. Under normal circumstances, it is done once a year, which is also combined with the specific situation of tea, just like hot and cold rice.