一盅两件

食在广州，味在西关。广州西关一带孕育出了不少中华餐饮老字号。漫步在上下九步行街商圈，多家茶楼依然牌匾高悬。

　　上午11时许，位于上下九第十甫路的百年老店陶陶居总店门口，已有市民排队等位。

　　在颇具岭南韵味的大堂里，“老广”(广州人的俗称)罗叔拿起铅笔，在菜单上勾选了虾饺皇、凤爪、艇仔粥、红米肠等菜式。罗叔已经退休，隔三差五便和亲友到此品茗消遣。类似他这样的“老饕”不在少数。

　　热气氤氲的粤菜粤点，谈天说地的食客们，是岭南茶楼里恒久不变的场景。在广州核心商圈，茶楼里常常一位难求。

　　然而，岭南茶楼并非一蹴而就。“从茶居到茶楼，是广州人饮茶文化形成的标志。”广州市文史研究馆馆员、原广州市地方志研究所副所长龚伯洪表示。

　　根据史料记载，在清朝咸丰年间，佛山、广州等地方开始有“厘馆”，由于茶价仅二厘钱，这些店铺被称为“二厘馆”。后来，比“二厘馆”更为高档的茶居诞生了。二十世纪五六十年代时期，广州园林式茶楼兴起，以北园酒家、南园酒家、泮溪酒家为代表，把岭南饮食文化、建筑文明和地方特色融于一炉。

　　与潮州工夫茶以品茶为主不同的是，老广饮茶又谓之“叹茶”，茶往往只是配角，更重要的是点心、菜肴和粥品。

　　老广们常言道：“一盅两件”足以叹世界。“一盅”指的是一壶茶，比较地道的有菊花茶、普洱茶、铁观音等;“两件”就是指两件点心，最常见的包括“四大天王”——虾饺、干蒸烧卖、叉烧包和蛋挞。

　　虾饺晶莹剔透，味道爽滑鲜美，一口一个刚刚好;干蒸烧卖也有独特的软糯香甜;叉烧包的肉馅，咬下去香气四溢、肉汁横流;传统的酥皮蛋挞，外酥内嫩，香甜可口，老少皆宜……

　　广式茶点的烹制过程往往比较讲究。广州市旅游商务职业学校教师、中国烹饪大师康有荣介绍，以虾饺为例，要先把澄面、生粉和匀，加盐、煮沸的清水进行搅拌，加盖焗5分钟成熟澄面，之后加入猪油搓匀，制成澄面皮。澄面皮搓成长条形，切粒，每粒约15克，压薄成圆形，包入虾饺馅，之后上蒸笼，用猛火蒸6分钟至熟即可。

　　“虾饺馅要冷藏，使其凝结，方便操作。包馅时，面皮不要沾上馅汁，防止影响外观。蒸至熟即可，过火则会致使成品开裂。”康有荣说。

　　在一百多年的发展史中，粤式茶点不断推陈出新。“对粤菜粤点来说，是否‘正宗’束缚不了师傅们的手脚，这与岭南文化包容和开放的特性一脉相承。”广州知名美食专栏作家林卫辉告诉记者，早于粤菜成名的淮扬菜，对粤菜的影响很大。广式早茶点心就借鉴淮扬菜的点心，并将其发扬光大，从重碳水化合物向多蛋白质转化，至今仍可看到两者十分相似。

　　“粤菜不仅善于向中国其他菜系学习，还向西餐学习。”林卫辉说，广式早茶里常见的各类酥皮点心、蛋挞、天鹅酥、榴莲酥，就借鉴了西式黄油起酥的制作方式。

　　近年来，粤式点心品种不断丰富。在茶楼“点都德”广州北京路店，可选的茶点达100多种，食客对于鸳鸯瑶柱萝卜饺、咖喱牛腩酥、粗粮滑鸡粥等新品反响不错。

　　“饮左茶未(喝茶了吗)?”叹早茶已成为许多老广的日常生活。如今，广州很多茶楼一天提供三次茶市，让食客们从早、午到晚间，都可在“一盅两件”中感受岭南风情，回味无穷。

　　近日，广府饮茶习俗被广东省人民政府列入第八批省级非物质文化遗产代表性项目名录。广州市文化广电旅游局表示，将通过出台政策、法规，建设非遗街区、非遗工作站、传承基地等平台以及资金扶持，筑牢广府饮茶习俗等非遗保护的深度

Food in Guangzhou, taste in Xiguan. There are many time-honored Chinese restaurants in the Xiguan area of Guangzhou. Strolling in the Shangxiajiu Pedestrian Street business district, many teahouses are still hanging high.

At about 11 a.m., at the entrance of the century-old Taotaoju main store on Shangxiajiushifu Road, there were already citizens queuing for a table.

In the lobby with Lingnan flavor, Uncle Luo "Laoguang" (commonly known as Guangzhou people) picked up a pencil and selected dishes such as shrimp dumplings, chicken feet, boat porridge, red rice sausages and other dishes on the menu. Uncle Luo has retired, and he and his relatives and friends come here to enjoy tea every once in a while. There are not a few "old gluttons" like him.

The steamy Cantonese dishes and the diners chatting about the world are a constant scene in Lingnan teahouses. In the core business district of Guangzhou, it is often difficult to find a person in the teahouse.

However, the Lingnan Teahouse was not achieved overnight. "From the tea house to the tea house, it is the symbol of the formation of the tea drinking culture of Guangzhou people." said Gong Bohong, a librarian of the Guangzhou Institute of Literature and History and the former deputy director of the Guangzhou Institute of Local History.

According to historical records, during the Xianfeng period of the Qing Dynasty, Foshan, Guangzhou and other places began to have "li halls". Since the price of tea was only two cents, these shops were called "erli halls". Later, a more high-end tea house than the "Erli Pavilion" was born. In the 1950s and 1960s, Guangzhou garden-style teahouses emerged, represented by Beiyuan Restaurant, Nanyuan Restaurant and Panxi Restaurant, which integrated Lingnan food culture, architectural civilization and local characteristics.

Different from Chaozhou Gongfu Tea, which is mainly about tea tasting, Laoguang Drinking Tea is also called "Sighing Tea". Tea is often only a supporting role, and more importantly, snacks, dishes and porridge.

There is an old saying that "two pieces in one cup" is enough to sigh the world. "One cup" refers to a pot of tea, and the more authentic ones include chrysanthemum tea, Pu'er tea, Tieguanyin, etc.; "two pieces" refers to two desserts, the most common ones include the "Four Heavenly Kings" - shrimp dumplings, dried Steamed siu mai, char siu buns and egg tarts.

Shrimp dumplings are crystal clear, smooth and delicious, and one bite is just right; dry steamed siomai also has a unique soft, glutinous and sweet taste; the meat filling of barbecued pork buns is full of aroma and gravy; traditional crispy egg tarts are crispy on the outside and tender on the inside , sweet and delicious, suitable for all ages...

The cooking process of Cantonese-style refreshments is often more elaborate. Kang Yourong, a teacher of Guangzhou Tourism Business Vocational School and a Chinese cooking master, introduced that taking shrimp dumplings as an example, you should first mix the clear noodles, cornstarch, add salt and boiled water, and then cover and bake for 5 minutes to mature clear noodles. Add lard and knead to make a clear skin. Roll the dough into long strips, cut into small pieces, about 15 grams each, flatten into a round shape, wrap in the shrimp dumpling stuffing, put it on the steamer, and steam for 6 minutes over high heat until cooked.

"The stuffing of shrimp dumplings should be refrigerated to make it congeal and easy to operate. When stuffing, the dough should not be stained with the filling juice to prevent it from affecting the appearance. Steam it until cooked, but overheating will cause the finished product to crack." Kang Yourong said.

In the development history of more than 100 years, Cantonese refreshment has been constantly innovating. "For Cantonese cuisine, whether 'authentic' cannot restrain the hands and feet of the masters, this is in line with the tolerance and openness of the Lingnan culture." Lin Weihui, a well-known food columnist in Guangzhou, told reporters that Huaiyang cuisine, which became famous earlier than Cantonese cuisine, is very important to Cantonese cuisine has a great influence. Cantonese-style morning tea dim sum borrowed from Huaiyang cuisine dim sum and carried it forward, transforming from heavy carbohydrates to multi-protein, and it can still be seen that the two are very similar.

"Cantonese cuisine is not only good at learning from other Chinese cuisines, but also from Western food." Lin Weihui said that the various pastries, egg tarts, swan crisps, and durian crisps commonly found in Cantonese morning tea borrowed from Western-style butter shortening.

In recent years, the varieties of Cantonese dim sum have been continuously enriched. In the restaurant "Dian Du De" Guangzhou Beijing Road store, there are more than 100 kinds of refreshments to choose from, and diners have responded well to new products such as mandarin duck and scallop dumplings with radish, curry beef brisket, and thick-grain smooth chicken porridge.

"Have you drunk Zuocha yet?" Sighing morning tea has become the daily life of many Lao Guang. Nowadays, many teahouses in Guangzhou offer tea markets three times a day, so that diners can experience the Lingnan style in "one cup and two pieces" from morning, noon to evening, with endless aftertastes.

Recently, the custom of drinking tea in Guangfu has been included in the eighth batch of representative projects of provincial intangible cultural heritage by the People's Government of Guangdong Province. The Guangzhou Municipal Bureau of Culture, Radio, Film, Television and Tourism stated that through the introduction of policies and regulations, the construction of intangible cultural heritage blocks, intangible cultural heritage workstations, inheritance bases and other platforms and financial support will consolidate the depth of intangible cultural heritage protection such as tea drinking customs in Guangfu.