武夷岩茶、铁观音、老白茶 老茶出酸味的原因

《1》

有个茶友来讨论。

说起一桩怪事。

说他存的茶，无论武夷岩茶、铁观音、老白茶还是熟普，存两三年之后，都会有酸味。

于是，他总结说，看来老茶出酸味是很正常的。

这个认知，吓到了村姑陈。

这种逻辑，完全，就是伪逻辑的标准范本。

比如，一个女生，恋爱了5次，次次都遭遇劈腿，于是她便得出结论，说天下男人都会劈腿。

这结论是对的吗？

又有一个女生，嫁了3次，3次都跟婆婆相处艰难，于是她便得出结论，天下的婆婆都很凶恶。

这结论能成立么？

当然不能。

这叫以偏概全，这叫没找到主要矛盾。

古代的皇帝喜欢写罪己诏，洋洋洒洒一大堆，列举自己的各种罪状。

曾子曰：吾日三省吾身。

出了事，还是得从自己身上找原因啊。

别人存的茶，都干燥鲜活，而自己存的茶，不管是六大茶类里哪种茶，都酸了，这难道不应该是自己的原因么？

（画外音）李麻花：大侠，哪种茶都能存出酸味，也是一种能力啊！

《2》

是的，如果能把自己存的茶，全部存出酸味来，那肯定是自己的存茶方式或者存茶环境出了问题。

赶紧去整改吧。

比如，仓库太潮湿，导致水汽进入茶叶袋子里，时间一长，引起茶叶的过度发酵，生出了酸味。

比如，取用茶叶的习惯不好，每次打开茶叶袋子之后，没有及时密封，就让袋口敞开在那里，一来二去，茶叶与空气中的水汽大量接触，泛出酸味来。

比如，喝茶的时候不是用小罐子分装茶叶，而是喜欢从大箱里取茶，且一取一大盘，这盘茶叶放在桌上半天，才想起来倒回箱子里去。如此一来，这摆在桌上大半天的茶叶，便吸入了水汽，成为了一个“带潮体”。

它再被放进箱子里之后，便会影响到箱内其它干燥的茶叶，把多余的水分传递给它们，时间一长，这整箱茶叶都被传染了，水分一多，发酸便是分分钟的事了。

上述这些，都是一些小习惯，容易被忽略。

而正是这些小习惯，才会在假以时日之后，衍生出大问题来。

防微杜渐，便要从小事着眼。

《3》

然而，茶友说了，我这茶发酸，并不是受潮的原因。

是因为烘干时的温度过高了。

欧~~这是何解？村姑陈搜索了一圈自己大脑里关于发酵和发酸的化学常识，怎么也想不明白，发酵不跟水有关，倒跟温度过高有关。

茶友一看难倒了我，大乐。

他祭出了自己的理论依据：

茶叶表面有活性酶，烘干的温度过高，会让失活的活性酶在储存过程中跟氧气发酵，生成酸味。

所以，他的结论是，老岩茶老白茶老普洱老铁观音会发酸，是因为加工过程中烘干温度太高。

听完这番话，我愣是半天没有回过神来。

茶友更乐了，说，看，总算有一个知识是你不懂而我懂的了吧？

我没有回复。

因为，我在想，要怎么回复。

此时村姑陈的心情，就像一位缝补高手，面对一件全是裂缝的衣服，需要思考一下如何下手、从何处下手。

《4》

首先，发酵是个生物化学反应。

它的形成，是由浸出液中的糖，在缺氧条件下降解而产生的二氧化碳所引起的。

“发酵”这个词汇在生活中往往是人联想到发面制作大饼、油条、馒头、包子，或者联想到食品酸败物品霉烂。

馒头没有发酵好，便发酸了；米酒没有发酵好，也发酸了，从而生成了醋。

可见，酸味，是“发酵”这种生物化学现象所形成的。

这一点，北方喜欢吃面食的茶友，四川腌过泡菜的茶友，江浙酱过酱菜的茶友，以及东北做过辣白菜的茶友，肯定深有体会。

而茶叶，这种干燥的植物叶片，这种原来并没有酸味的物质，要想生成酸味，也必定得要通过发酵才能生成。

众所周知，发酵的基础条件，是水，与氧。

那么，如果一款茶，出厂的时候是极干燥的，像这位茶友所言，烘干温度太高，烘过头了，茶叶干得不得了，几乎完全没有游离态的水分了，那么它在陈化的过程中，怎么会生成酸味呢？

没有水，怎么发酵，怎么发酸？

那肯定是这茶叶在储存过程中，受潮进了水，这才满足了发酵的条件，最终在高温与茶叶细胞中的微生物的共同作用下，生出酸味来的。

故而，茶叶存出酸味，必定是含水量太多的结果。

否则，不会发酵，也不会发酸。

不管哪种茶，都一样。

《5》

其次，茶友说，茶叶的表面有活性酶，该活性酶与氧气发酵，生成酸味。

这个理解则更加超凡脱俗（超越了现代生物学与化学的理论基础）。

茶叶细胞中，有一种酶，叫多酚氧化酶，它可以与氧气发生反应，参与分解茶多酚，让茶多酚减少（转化成别的对胃不构成刺激的络合物）。

但这种酶，它并不是存在于茶叶表面的，它是住在茶叶细胞质当中的。

如果存在于表面，那不是老早就氧化了吗——早在萎凋的时候就氧化了。

另外，这种酶的作用，是氧化茶多酚，使其减少，从而减少茶汤对胃的刺激——它的存在可不是与氧气发酵生成酸味。

生成酸味可不是它的强项，让茶多酚变少才是，千万别把茶叶发酸的“重任”强加到它身上。

并且，如果胃不太强壮的茶友，喝茶的时候就要多喝含这种多酚氧化酶较多的茶，有它的存在，茶叶当中的茶多酚会一天一天减少（转化成别的对胃不构成刺激的络合物），变得更加温柔，适合任何人群饮用。

《6》

发酵，氧化，都是基础的常识。

发酵，需要氧气，发酵，需要温度，发酵，需要水。

而一款烘干温度太高的茶，高温已经让茶叶当中的游离水分几乎已经不存在了，又如何能与空气中的氧气发酵生出酸味呢？

存起来的茶发了酸，必定是有水分，加上氧气与温度共同作用，形成发酵，才会生成酸味。

所以，认为“太干的茶会发酸”，这是一个完全脱离了现代生物学与化学基础的谬论。

太谬了。

不信？

拿一袋干面粉，不放一滴水，发酵一个来看看？

"1"

A tea friend came to discuss.

Talk about a weird thing.

It is said that the tea he has stored, whether it is Wuyi rock tea, Tieguanyin, old white tea or cooked Pu, will have a sour taste after two or three years of storage.

So, he concluded, it seems that it is normal for old tea to have a sour taste.

This realization scared the village girl Chen.

This logic, completely, is the standard template for pseudo-logic.

For example, a girl has been in love 5 times, and she has cheated every time, so she came to the conclusion that all men in the world cheat.

Is this conclusion correct?

There was another girl who had been married 3 times and had difficulty getting along with her mother-in-law three times, so she came to the conclusion that mother-in-laws in the world were all vicious.

Can this conclusion hold?

Of course not.

This is called generalization, which is called failure to find the main contradiction.

The ancient emperors liked to write edicts of self-incrimination, and they listed a lot of their own crimes.

Zengzi said: I examine my body three times a day.

If something goes wrong, you still have to find the reason from yourself.

The tea stored by others is dry and fresh, but the tea stored by oneself, no matter which type of tea in the six major tea categories, is sour. Shouldn't this be my own reason?

(Voiceover) Li Mahua: Hero, any kind of tea can retain its sour taste, which is also a kind of ability!

"2"

Yes, if you can store all the tea you have stored sour, then there must be a problem with the way you store the tea or the environment in which you store the tea.

Hurry to rectify it.

For example, the warehouse is too humid, causing water vapor to enter the tea bags. Over time, the tea leaves will be over-fermented and have a sour taste.

For example, the habit of taking tea leaves is not good. Every time the tea bag is opened, it is not sealed in time, and the mouth of the bag is left open. After going back and forth, the tea leaves come into contact with the water vapor in the air in large quantities, and a sour taste emerges.

For example, when drinking tea, instead of using small jars to divide tea leaves, I like to take tea from a large box, and take a large plate of tea. This plate of tea leaves sits on the table for a long time before I remember to pour it back into the box. In this way, the tea leaves that have been on the table for a long time have inhaled water vapor and become a "moisture-bearing body".

After it is put into the box again, it will affect other dry tea leaves in the box, passing the excess water to them. Over time, the whole box of tea leaves will be infected. Once there is too much water, it will become sour in minutes. matter.

These are all small habits that are easily overlooked.

And it is these small habits that will give rise to big problems after a while.

To prevent micro-duplication, it is necessary to focus on small things.

"3"

However, the tea friend said that the sourness of my tea is not the reason for the dampness.

This is because the drying temperature is too high.

O~~ What's the solution? Village girl Chen searched for the chemical knowledge about fermentation and sourness in her brain, but she couldn't figure it out. Fermentation is not related to water, but to high temperature.

Tea friends stumped me at first sight, Dale.

He offered his theoretical basis:

There are active enzymes on the surface of tea leaves, and the drying temperature is too high, which will cause the inactivated active enzymes to ferment with oxygen during storage, resulting in a sour taste.

Therefore, he concluded that the sourness of old rock tea, old white tea, old Pu'er and old Tieguanyin is because the drying temperature during processing is too high.

After hearing these words, I was stunned for a long time without regaining my senses.

The tea friends were even more happy, saying, look, there is finally a piece of knowledge that you don't understand but I understand, right?

I did not reply.

Because, I was thinking, how to reply.

At this time, village girl Chen's mood is like a sewing master. Faced with a garment full of cracks, she needs to think about how and where to start.

"4"

First, fermentation is a biochemical reaction.

Its formation is caused by the carbon dioxide produced by the degradation of sugars in the leachate under anoxic conditions.

The word "fermentation" is often associated with making bread, dough sticks, steamed buns, and steamed buns, or with spoiled food items.

If the steamed bread is not fermented well, it will become sour; if the rice wine is not fermented well, it will also become sour, resulting in vinegar.

It can be seen that the sour taste is formed by the biochemical phenomenon of "fermentation".

In this regard, tea friends who like to eat pasta in the north, those who have pickled pickles in Sichuan, those who have cooked pickles in Jiangsu and Zhejiang, and those who have cooked spicy cabbage in the Northeast must have a deep understanding of this.

And tea, this kind of dry plant leaves, a substance that did not have a sour taste originally, in order to produce a sour taste, it must be produced through fermentation.

As we all know, the basic conditions of fermentation are water and oxygen.

Then, if a tea is extremely dry when it leaves the factory, as this tea friend said, the drying temperature is too high, the drying temperature is too high, the tea leaves are extremely dry, and there is almost no free moisture, then it is in the How can a sour taste be formed during the aging process?

Without water, how to ferment, how to sour?

It must be that the tea was damp and entered the water during the storage process, which satisfies the conditions for fermentation, and finally produces a sour taste under the combined action of high temperature and the microorganisms in the tea cells.

Therefore, the sour taste of tea leaves must be the result of too much water content.

Otherwise, there will be no fermentation and no sourness.

No matter what kind of tea, it's the same.

"5"

Secondly, tea friends said that there are active enzymes on the surface of tea leaves, which ferment with oxygen to produce sour taste.

This understanding is more otherworldly (beyond the theoretical underpinnings of modern biology and chemistry).

In tea cells, there is an enzyme called polyphenol oxidase, which can react with oxygen, participate in the decomposition of tea polyphenols, and reduce tea polyphenols (convert them into other complexes that are not irritating to the stomach).

But this enzyme, it does not exist on the surface of the tea, it lives in the cytoplasm of the tea.

If it exists on the surface, isn't it oxidized long ago - oxidized as early as withering.

In addition, the role of this enzyme is to oxidize tea polyphenols and reduce them, thereby reducing the stimulation of the tea soup to the stomach - its existence is not fermented with oxygen to produce a sour taste.

It is not its strong point to generate sour taste, but to reduce tea polyphenols. Don't impose the "important responsibility" of tea sour on it.

In addition, if you have a tea friend with a weak stomach, you should drink more tea containing this polyphenol oxidase when you drink tea. With its presence, the tea polyphenols in the tea will decrease day by day (converted into other enzymes). The complex that does not irritate the stomach) becomes more gentle and suitable for anyone to drink.

"6"

Fermentation and oxidation are basic common sense.

Fermentation requires oxygen, fermentation requires temperature, and fermentation requires water.

And a tea whose drying temperature is too high, the high temperature has made the free moisture in the tea almost disappear, how can it ferment with the oxygen in the air to produce a sour taste?

The stored tea is sour, it must have moisture, and the combined action of oxygen and temperature to form fermentation will produce sour taste.

Therefore, to think that "too dry tea will be sour" is a fallacy that is completely divorced from the basis of modern biology and chemistry.

It's ridiculous.

Do not believe?

Take a bag of dry flour, without a drop of water, ferment one to see?