清香型铁观音

毫无疑问，铁观音是闽南乌龙的王者。

它的制作工艺最先成熟，影响其他闽南乌龙乃至台湾乌龙。

它的香气变化多样，最有层次感，称之为“韵”，而不能简单称为“香”。

它的产业链最完备，规模化、标准化做得最好，与大的铁观音厂家打交道，能感觉到出众的职业素养。

▼铁观音属包揉型乌龙茶，这是初揉后的毛茶（茶厂实拍）

它的极盛期始于上世纪90年代，台湾茶商带来“清香型”的做法，改变传统工艺。

这种变化可总结成两点：

1、制茶间装空调，保证20℃左右的恒温条件，摇青次数普遍减少到三次，减轻力度。

2、把茶摊放在空调房里，（头天下午晒青，夜里摇青）等到第二天上午杀青，而不是传统做法里香气达到最高时就杀。

这样出来的铁观音称为“正味”。外形更绿，香气高扬又淡雅。

▼包揉后的铁观音，条索形如蜻蜓头，也像虾米（茶厂实拍）

第四年上架清香型铁观音，四年来有不少茶友对比过，皆给出了远超市场同类主流产品（斤价千元以上）的评价，0差评。

今年的铁观音同样产自安溪西坪镇生态茶园，是铁观音三个最好的产地之一。受益于好天气，茶树长得顺，制茶也顺，香气比去年更持久，茶味也更足。

干茶形如虾米，色为砂绿，做青程度相对较高。比市面上绝大多数自称是铁观音的，干茶要更沉更大。

茶底完整，茶汤亮黄明澈，不是常见清香型铁观音的“青绿”色。滋味柔润，回甘明显，没有“青味”。

香气特别高扬，且稳定持久，可冲泡十次以上，茶汤、茶底和杯盖保持一致。持续冲泡品饮，回味有明显的蜜韵，婉转悠长。

饮过之后能初步体会，为什么安溪铁观音是闽南乌龙之王。

There is no doubt that Tieguanyin is the king of Oolong in southern Fujian.

Its production process is the first to mature, affecting other Hokkien Oolongs and even Taiwan Oolongs.

Its aroma is varied, the most layered, called "rhyme", not simply "fragrance".

It has the most complete industrial chain, the best scale and standardization, and when dealing with large Tieguanyin manufacturers, you can feel outstanding professionalism.

▼Tieguanyin belongs to the rubbing type oolong tea, this is the Maocha after the initial rubbing (real shot of the tea factory)

Its heyday began in the 1990s, when Taiwanese tea merchants brought a "flavor-type" approach and changed traditional craftsmanship.

This change can be summed up in two points:

1. The tea-making room is equipped with air conditioners to ensure a constant temperature of about 20°C, and the number of shakes is generally reduced to three times to reduce the intensity.

2. Put the tea stall in an air-conditioned room, (sun in the afternoon the day before and shake it at night) until the next morning to kill the tea, instead of killing it when the aroma reaches the highest level in the traditional practice.

The Tieguanyin produced in this way is called "Zhengwei". The appearance is greener, and the aroma is high and elegant.

▼The Tieguanyin after wrapping is shaped like a dragonfly head, and it is also like shrimp (actual shot from a tea factory)

In the fourth year, the fragrance-type Tieguanyin was put on the shelves. In the past four years, many tea lovers have compared it, and they have given evaluations far exceeding similar mainstream products in the market (more than 1,000 yuan per kilogram), with 0 negative comments.

This year's Tieguanyin is also produced in the ecological tea garden of Xiping Town, Anxi, which is one of the three best production areas of Tieguanyin. Benefiting from the good weather, the tea trees grow smoothly and the tea is made smoothly. The aroma is longer than last year, and the tea taste is more abundant.

The dried tea is shaped like dried shrimp, with a sandy green color and a relatively high degree of greenness. Dry tea is heavier and larger than most of the products on the market that claim to be Tieguanyin.

The tea base is complete, and the tea soup is bright yellow and clear, not the "green" color of the common fragrance-type Tieguanyin. The taste is soft and smooth, the sweetness is obvious, and there is no "green flavor".

The aroma is particularly high, and it is stable and long-lasting. It can be brewed more than ten times, and the tea soup, tea base and cup lid are consistent. Continue to brew and drink, and the aftertaste has a clear honey rhythm, which is gentle and long.

After drinking it, I can initially understand why Tieguanyin is the king of Oolong in southern Fujian.