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铁观音纯雅礼和
铁观音纯雅礼和


乌龙茶色香韵味
‍‍乌龙茶色香韵味
News Detail

铁观音今非昔比的市场现状 茶农们的生活又有怎样的变化?

  1
Issuing time:2022-05-13 12:52

茶都安溪是中国的乌龙茶之乡,是铁观音的发源地。安溪人凭借一己之力,用神奇的“东方树叶”,打造了风靡全国的饮茶文化。在昨天的报道中,我们看到了铁观音今非昔比的市场现状,那么,安溪当地茶农们的生活又有怎样的变化?


一起去茶山寻找答案吧



安溪的产茶史可以追溯到唐代。安溪一直都有“茶树良种宝库”之称,而在众多茶树良种中,品质最优、知名度最高的就是“铁观音”。它起源于清朝,至今已有近300年的历史,西坪、祥华、感德就是安溪县久负盛名的铁观音主产区。



        从安溪县城开车两个多小时,记者来到了祥华乡珍山村。这里平均海拔超过八百米,长年云雾环绕,正应了那句高山云雾出好茶。我们上山的时间,正赶上铁观音春茶采摘期。茶园绵延青翠,满眼新绿。但却没有看到预想中繁忙的采茶场景,村民陈水源告诉我们,这里的茶园已经荒废了。




珍山村茶农 陈水源



这边的茶园已经荒掉有7、8年了,但是里面一些草拨开还能看到茶。




这处荒废的茶园就是陈水源家的,大概有十几亩,另外二十几亩茶园他索性送给了亲戚打理。曾经因为铁观音在家门口赚得盆满钵满,现在还是因为铁观音,陈水源不得不背井离乡。




珍山村茶农 陈水源




到2013年、2014年感觉不对劲,外面的铁观音太多,不是安溪县的铁观音也太多,冲击太大,不得不转行,我现在就在深圳做烟酒,心情还是起伏比较大,还是不太愿意转行的,还是很留恋铁观音的。




在珍山村,像陈水源这样选择转行的茶农大概有二十多人,几乎都是人到中年,与茶叶打了半辈子交道,又不得不另寻出路。村里的茶园也比鼎盛时期缩减了1000多亩。






难道在今天的茶桌上


经历了300年风雨的铁观音


真的没有价值了吗?


抛去商业的光环


它还剩下什么?




懂茶的人,都知道“兰花香,观音韵” “绿叶红镶边,七泡有余香”,说的就是铁观音。




安溪县茶叶学会秘书长 陈进火



铁观音区别于其它的茶最大的魅力在于它的香气和滋味,香气非常丰富,滋味也是比较浓厚,有个做青的工序,香气成分就是通过这个工序转化过来的。



从小在茶乡长大,大学攻读茶叶专业,毕业后从事茶叶研究工作,陈进火对铁观音一往情深。




在他看来,颠峰时期的铁观音虽然创造了傲人的商业价值,但在利益的驱动下,也滋生了很多市场乱象。当下这个相对冷静的市场环境,对于铁观音的长远发展来说,未必是坏事。




安溪县茶叶学会秘书长 陈进火




一些不适合铁观音生产的茶园退了一些,现在也在推动一些农田的退茶,倒逼我们把质量做得更好,我们就是坚守制茶的匠心,做好我们自己,实实在在做出好茶,得到市场认可,整个产业自然会继续发展上来,其它茶叶品种也在发展,现在要重新回到一枝独秀是很困难的,但是我们会一直不断努力,把我们的市场重新拿回来,哪里失去的再把它拿回来。





如果不是来到安溪县,来到祥华乡,我们可能很难知道这一片小小铁观音背后那300年的沉淀,更不会发现这片茶园背后藏着的那份人间欢喜和幸酸。



每次来到茶园,阳光茶香总能让人心情特别宁静。也不免让人为它不复盛世的模样而感到些许遗憾。




可能你会说这就是人间百态,这就是市场竞争下的必然。那么铁观音的路究竟该何去何从?明天我们将回到厦门,去市场上为铁观音探探路。

Anxi, the tea capital, is the hometown of oolong tea in China and the birthplace of Tieguanyin. Anxi people rely on their own strength and use the magical "Oriental Leaf" to create a tea-drinking culture that is popular all over the country. In yesterday's report, we saw that the market situation of Tieguanyin is not what it used to be. Then, how has the life of the local tea farmers in Anxi changed?


Let's go to Chashan to find the answer



The history of tea production in Anxi can be traced back to the Tang Dynasty. Anxi has always been known as the "Treasure House of Tea Trees", and among the many tea tree varieties, "Tieguanyin" is the one with the best quality and the highest reputation. It originated in the Qing Dynasty and has a history of nearly 300 years. Xiping, Xianghua and Gande are the famous main producing areas of Tieguanyin in Anxi County.


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        After driving more than two hours from Anxi County, the reporter came to Zhenshan Village, Xianghua Township. The average altitude here is more than 800 meters, surrounded by clouds and mists for many years, which is exactly the same as the saying that the mountains and clouds make good tea. The time we went up the mountain was just in time for the picking period of Tieguanyin spring tea. The tea garden stretches green, and the eyes are full of new green. However, we did not see the expected busy tea picking scene. Villager Chen Shuiyuan told us that the tea garden here has been abandoned.


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Chen Shuiyuan, a tea farmer in Zhenshan Village


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The tea garden here has been deserted for 7 or 8 years, but tea can still be seen when some grasses are removed.




This abandoned tea garden belongs to Chen Shuiyuan's family, about ten acres, and he simply gave the other twenty acres to relatives to take care of. Once, because of Tieguanyin, he made a lot of money at the door of his home, but now it is because of Tieguanyin that Chen Shuiyuan has to leave his hometown.




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Chen Shuiyuan, a tea farmer in Zhenshan Village


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In 2013 and 2014, I felt that something was wrong. There were too many Tieguanyin outside, and there were too many Tieguanyin outside Anxi County. The impact was too great, and I had to change careers. Those who are reluctant to change careers still miss Tieguanyin very much.




In Zhenshan Village, there are more than 20 tea farmers like Chen Shuiyuan who have chosen to change careers. The tea garden in the village has also shrunk by more than 1,000 mu compared to its heyday.




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Is it on the tea table today


Tieguanyin who has experienced 300 years of ups and downs


Is it really worthless?


Throw away the halo of business


What is left?


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Anyone who knows tea knows that "orchid fragrance, Guanyin rhyme", "green leaves and red borders, seven brews have a lingering fragrance", which is Tieguanyin.


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Chen Jinhuo, Secretary General of Anxi County Tea Society

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The biggest charm of Tieguanyin different from other teas is its aroma and taste. The aroma is very rich and the taste is relatively strong. There is a process of making green tea, and the aroma components are transformed through this process.



Growing up in a tea town, he studied tea at the university and engaged in tea research after graduation. Chen Jinhuo has a deep love for Tieguanyin.


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In his view, although Tieguanyin at its peak created impressive commercial value, driven by interests, it also spawned a lot of market chaos. The current relatively calm market environment is not necessarily a bad thing for Tieguanyin's long-term development.




Chen Jinhuo, Secretary General of Anxi County Tea Society



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Some tea gardens that are not suitable for Tieguanyin production have been withdrawn, and now we are also promoting the withdrawal of tea from some farmlands, forcing us to improve the quality. If good tea is recognized by the market, the entire industry will naturally continue to develop, and other tea varieties are also developing. Now it is very difficult to get back to thriving, but we will continue to work hard to bring our market back. Where to lose take it back.




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If we hadn't come to Anxi County and Xianghua Township, it would have been difficult for us to know the 300 years of precipitation behind this little piece of Tieguanyin, let alone the joy and sorrow of the world hidden behind this tea garden.


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Every time I come to the tea garden, the fragrance of sunshine tea always makes people feel very peaceful. It can't help but make people feel a little regretful that it is no longer prosperous.




Maybe you will say that this is the world, and this is the inevitable under the market competition. So where should Tieguanyin go? Tomorrow we will go back to Xiamen to explore the way for Tieguanyin in the market.


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