鸿运年年茗茶教你如何将铁观音品出茶韵

第一次觉得安溪铁观音非凡美妙，是在十年前的一个盛夏。当时的我，背着背包约了三五好友，去山里徒步。盛夏时节，南方的气温特高，我们一行人，走在华东天目山脉中，是靠着耳边淙淙的流水声和山道两旁浓浓的绿荫来降温的，而尽管是这样，也抵不过爬山过程中气喘吁吁的酷热。我们基本走几步、歇几步，顶着耐力翻越了一座又一座的山峰。

好不容易到半山腰，我看到老钟早早地等在溪泉边，支起锅炉煮起了泉水。看水沸腾了，老钟麻利地将锅炉中的水倒在山溪边的石头上，又从上游地方接了一锅水来烧。剩下的人陆陆续续赶上来，就围坐在锅炉旁边等水开。老钟看人基本到齐了，就灭了火，从背包里掏出一个金属小罐子。他拧开盖子，从罐中抖落出墨绿色的蜻蜓头铁观音茶叶到他已经洗好的紫砂壶里，再将热水冲进茶壶里，闷上盖子。

“老钟，你真是能选地方，这大块平坦的石头真是宝地啊。坐在这里，有大树遮阳，还能脱掉鞋袜把脚浸在溪水里，还能随手够到茶杯。”“你别说啊，这溪水边一坐，风吹过来都凉丝丝的，一点都不像正儿八经的夏天了。”大家齐齐坐下后，七嘴八舌地闲聊着。老钟把小茶壶里的水倒在山溪边的石头上，留着里面的茶叶，继续再将新的热水倒进茶壶，盖上茶壶的盖子。这是喝铁观音的必经程序，哪怕是在荒无人烟的天目山脉里。

烈日照着大树外头，老钟端着紫砂小茶杯递过来，跟我说道：“我空下来的时候，就会喝喝茶，也说不上来这茶哪里好喝，但这热水一煮，茶杯一摆，热腾腾的茶水往嘴边这么一送，我就觉得这全世界都是安安静静的，就剩下这么几个人了，特别地自在。”我双手接过来，细嘬了一口，清香高而持久溢满口鼻，甘甜感久久滋润着舌根和喉部，一口下肚，闭上眼享受着，感觉整个人溶在清冽的泉水中，暑气一扫而光。

“这是安溪的铁观音吧？”

The first time I felt that Anxi Tieguanyin was extraordinary was in a midsummer ten years ago. At that time, I was carrying a backpack with three or five friends and went hiking in the mountains. In the midsummer season, the temperature in the south is extremely high. As a group of us, walking in the Tianmu Mountains in East China, we relied on the sound of running water and the thick green shade on both sides of the mountain road to cool down. Even so, we couldn’t reach it. Breathless heat during the climb. We basically took a few steps, rested a few steps, and climbed one mountain after another with endurance.

When I finally got to the middle of the mountain, I saw Lao Zhong waiting by the stream early, setting up a boiler to boil the spring water. Seeing that the water was boiling, Lao Zhong swiftly poured the water from the boiler onto the stones by the mountain stream, and took a pot of water from upstream to boil. The rest of the people caught up one after another and sat around the boiler waiting for the water to boil. Seeing that everyone was almost there, Lao Zhong put out the fire and took out a small metal jar from his backpack. He unscrewed the lid and shook out the dark green dragonfly tea leaves from the jar into the Zisha pot he had washed, then poured hot water into the teapot and stuffed the lid.

"Old Zhong, you really can choose a place. This large flat stone is really a treasure. Sitting here, there is a big tree for shade, you can take off your shoes and socks and dip your feet in the stream, and you can reach a tea cup at your fingertips." "Don't talk about it, when you sit by the stream, the wind blows and it's cold. It doesn't look like a serious summer at all." After everyone sat down together, they chatted. Lao Zhong poured the water from the small teapot on the stone beside the mountain stream, kept the tea leaves inside, and continued to pour new hot water into the teapot and closed the lid of the teapot. This is a necessary procedure for drinking Tieguanyin, even in the desolate Tianmu Mountains.

The scorching sun was shining outside the big tree, and Lao Zhong handed it over with a small purple sand teacup and said to me, "When I'm empty, I'll drink tea, and I can't tell how good this tea is, but when I boil this hot water, As soon as the tea cup is placed and the hot tea is brought to my mouth, I feel that the whole world is quiet, and there are only a few people left, so I am very comfortable." I took it with both hands and took a small sip. , The fragrance is high and long-lasting, filling the mouth and nose, and the sweetness moistens the tongue and throat for a long time. After a sip, close your eyes and enjoy it. You feel that the whole person is dissolved in the cool spring water, and the summer heat is swept away.

"Is this Tieguanyin of Anxi?"