安溪茗茶 梅占 毛蟹、本山  铁观音

提到安溪，饮茶人的第一反应就是“铁观音”了。殊不知，安溪并不仅有铁观音。

安溪本名“大岭山”，取溪流明溪之意

做为乌龙的关键起源地，安溪的原生态品种诸多

安溪做为乌龙的关键起源地，原生态品种诸多，光国家级别乌龙品种就会有六个：梅占、黄金桂、铁观音、大叶乌龙茶、毛蟹、赵本山。这六大品种风格迥异，其相应的适制方式也每个不一样。殊不知遗憾的是，在铁观音盛行的时期，销售市场看待铁观音之外的品种好像不太友好：无论其品种特性怎样，多选用合适铁观音的方式 开展制做，味道贴近铁观音的品种如毛蟹、赵本山，立即就变成铁观音的替死鬼；而并不像铁观音的，就索性抛去改种铁观音，或是立即弃耕不会再清洗。安溪铁观音以外的其他原生态品种，也像安溪县“大岭山”的古称一样，逐渐匿迹，不广为人知。

犹记：骑虎岩传来佛手柑香

“茶还很嫩，场长还不舍得采。”坐享高原地区佛手茶生态园的少堡主抓一抓头，害羞地说。

很嫩的茶不压秤，从采收的费用上来讲是一样的，但生产量却由于叶片都还没成长而减缩许多，对从业茶生产加工领域的人而言，真是亏变大！佛手归属于乌龙品种中的“大叶种”，完善叶可以长到一个成年人的手掌大，即使中开面的采收规范，叶面也是有宝宝的手掌心尺寸了。自然，这是以产品成本的视角考虑到，假如从品质上而言，嫩采的茶更易于作出品种香。

做为乌龙里正正经经的“大叶种”，佛手茶具备强大的活力，一年数次生芽，全年度按四季取制样。

佛手茶的品种香，种植区说成“香橼香”，香橼的香味类似佛手柑，更具体地说是一种奶香味和柑橘类水果的复合型香，也有人说是新鲜的热带水果的气场。听说，佛手茶往往含有柑橘类水果的香味，就来源于安溪寺院里的一次不经意。

大约三百年前，安溪金榜山里的骑虎岩有位嗜茶的高僧，常以佛手柑清供观音菩萨，佛手柑的香味幽雅，能令人心浮气躁心态迅速恬静出来，有利于修习，便逐渐思考着如何把佛手柑的香味保证茶中。一日，他向本地茶农要了几棵大叶乌龙茶的茶穗尝试嫁接法到佛手柑树枝，没想到这类嫁接法过的大叶乌龙茶，竟然做到了佛手柑的香味来，很是独特，故以佛手之名，本地人争相育种，在永春发扬。

佛手茶离去安溪后，由于其独特的口味，被东南亚地区的侨民看上。1917年旅马侨民集资款创立永春华兴栽种实业有限公司，在永春虎岗一带广植佛手煤炭运输南亚，为佛手茶的进步打下较好的未来发展基本。

已经产生：捕获被遗失的味道

墙里盛开墙内香，和佛手茶拥有同样机会的是黄金桂。

黄金桂本名黄棪。上世纪20时代，安溪罗岩的德弘利茶行将当地生产的黄棪茶，经漳州市、深圳装运中国香港、马来西亚等地，以“黄金贵”为商标logo，深得侨民认同。可能是黄棪茶的品种香类似桂花树，慢慢就把“黄金贵”变为“黄金桂”了。新中国的成立后，黄金桂的高产量遭受当地政府的高度重视，拨了专项资金适用产业发展规划，一度与安溪铁观音并排安溪茶的两个台柱子。自然，可以遭受侨民亲睐，传统式黄金桂的桂花飘香、水蜜桃味是非常诱人的。

罗燕的红壤地质构造

黄金桂起源于安溪虎丘罗岩，归属于国家级别优质油茶树品种，有近百年以上的人力栽种史。

殊不知，如今的安溪罗岩一带，好像难以想到当初黄金桂出入口的隆重开幕。换句话说在安溪铁观音迅速起降的时代，安溪的茶叶种植資源挹注于发展趋势铁观音，无论是品种汰换、或是生产制造管理工作，都离不了“增产报国”的引导标准。殊不知，生态资源比较有限，过分追求完美生产量，乃至以看起来“科学合理”的办法来造就生产量，实相当于涸泽而渔。自然，铁观音的销售市场垮台后，产于安溪的诸多乌龙也是一损俱损了。如今深层次虎邱的老茶树，虽然当地政府再怎样扭转局势，也可以看得清当初高产高于一切所产生的并发症。

骑虎岩佛手的传闻里，嫁接法于佛手柑树枝的大叶乌龙茶就没那麼好运了。

就安溪的好多个品种之中，除开当家铁观音以外，我本人非常喜好的是大叶乌龙茶的“乌龙韵”。做的好的大叶乌龙汤味道醇正，香味类似远方飘过来的腊梅，淡淡的悠悠的。相比于黄金桂的立即，大叶乌龙茶更像一个腼腆的年长者，稳稳地的、不抢着主要表现，茶韵几乎沉在汤色里面，外香不扬而内香明显、回味无穷绵长。

左 | 铁观音茶芽，紫芽、圆叶、歪尾、手指头印

右 | 黄金桂油茶树茶

也可能是大叶乌龙茶过于腼腆，或是如今行驶的这套茶评审规范不太适用，通常令人无法第一时间感受到它的风采，尤其是注重高效率、追求完美迅速交易的现代社会，优点反倒变为缺点了。这也是恶循环的逐渐，失去销售市场上的经济发展推动，本来栽种大叶乌龙茶的茶地逐渐拆换门楣，改种铁观音。即使还不断保持大叶乌龙茶生产制造情况的，也全自动减缩工艺流程、用最省劲的方法制做。

并并不是仅有大叶乌龙茶遭遇如此的问题，与铁观音、黄金桂合称安溪四大当家的品种的赵本山与毛蟹，在铁观音为流行的产业链条件下，一样令人担忧。只不过是赵本山、毛蟹的口味与铁观音相近，放进不是很担心品种的市面上，只需穿上铁观音的包裝，大差不差地都能依照铁观音的价钱走。很有可能由于两者的特点太类似了，北京市有一些茶艺培训班，还专业开班专家教授学员如何识别铁观音、赵本山与毛蟹。但这也是饮茶的快乐之一，在不一样的口味中通中异中、异中谋同。

未来展望：虽隐而不降其名声

实际上，好的炒茶师就跟好的主厨一样，按照食物的性能开展生产加工，把食物最好的情况呈现出去就是。可能是安溪发展趋势铁观音的力度大、時间久了，别的原出生此的品种反倒看起来归园田居其一，迫不得已隐名埋姓，荒于草野当中。或是为人作嫁，以铁观音之名摩肩接踵。实际上，不一样的品种不一定都适用铁观音的做法或评审规范，如同高考考试“两极分化”的宝宝一样，很有可能录用的规范或权重值一更改，马上就会有不一样的点评了。

毛蟹野茶，枝条新芽

好的口味或是要提供充足的服务平台呈现。2022年我上安溪三洋村找梅占的制片人杨福丁，三洋村归属于安溪芦田，位于偏僻，从安溪县里驾车上山得走贴近三个钟头的路途，与外部基本上处在阻隔情况。之前与老徐朋友碰面早已是两年前了，确实是进趟三洋真的不容易。刚下了车，老徐朋友诚挚地握住我的手表示感激。在大家持续三年的宣传下，高质量的三洋梅占慢慢开启名气、摆脱安溪，也愈来愈多的人认同。三洋村的地质环境与其它地区不一样，栽种梅占茶的银瓶山就是火山岩浆堆积出来的，火山岩石积累出去的茶，口味当然与其它地区不一样。

我觉得，这也是「大岭山隐」「梨子佛手茶」的使用价值，让安溪的隐士们能大隐隐于市，虽隐而不降其名声。

—"Brother, Lin Henian is from Anxi, and what he said was not Meihua, but Mei Zhan. ."

When it comes to Anxi, the first reaction of tea drinkers is "Tieguanyin". However, Anxi is not only Tieguanyin.

The original name of Anxi is "Qingxi", which means the clear stream of the stream.

As an important birthplace of oolong tea, there are many native varieties in Anxi.

As an important birthplace of oolong tea, Anxi has many native varieties, including six national-level oolong tea varieties: Meizhan, Huangjingui, Tieguanyin, Daye Oolong, Hairy Crab, and Benshan. These six varieties have their own characteristics, and their corresponding methods of production are also different. It is a pity, however, that in the era of Tieguanyin's popularity, the market does not seem to be very friendly to varieties other than Tieguanyin: no matter what the characteristics of the species are, they are mostly made with methods suitable for Tieguanyin, and the taste is close to Tieguanyin varieties such as hairy crab, Benshan , directly become a substitute for Tieguanyin; instead of Tieguanyin, simply remove and replant Tieguanyin, or simply abandon the waste and no longer take care of it. Other native species other than Anxi Tieguanyin, like the ancient name of "Qingxi" in Anxi County, gradually disappeared and were not known to the public.

Thinking from afar: The scent of bergamot comes from riding Tiger Rock

"The tea is still too tender, and the factory manager is reluctant to pick it." The young owner of the high-altitude bergamot tea estate scratched his head and said shyly.

The tea that is too tender does not weigh on the scale, and the cost of picking is the same, but the output has been reduced a lot because the leaves have not grown up. For those who are engaged in the tea processing industry, it is a big loss! Bergamot belongs to the "large-leaf species" in oolong tea varieties. The mature leaves can grow to the size of an adult's palm. Even if the picking standard of the middle-open face is used, the leaves are also the size of a baby's palm. Of course, this is from the point of view of production cost. In terms of quality, tender-picked tea is more likely to be fragrant.

As a serious "big leaf species" in oolong tea, bergamot tea has strong vitality, buds several times a year, and is harvested according to the four seasons throughout the year.

The variety of bergamot tea is fragrant, and the production area says it is "citron incense". The aroma of citron is similar to bergamot, more specifically, a compound fragrance of milk and citrus, and some people say it is the smell of tropical fruits. It is said that the reason why bergamot tea has a citrus aroma comes from an accident in Anxi temple.

About three hundred years ago, there was an old monk who was addicted to tea at Riding Tiger Rock on Jinbang Mountain in Anxi. He often used bergamot to make offerings to Bodhisattvas. The fragrance of bergamot is elegant, which can quickly calm people's impetuous emotions, which is helpful for practice. Thinking about how to make the aroma of bergamot into the tea. One day, he asked a local tea farmer for a few large-leaf oolong tea spikes to try to graft onto the bergamot tree. Unexpectedly, the grafted big-leaf oolong actually produced the aroma of bergamot, which is very interesting. It is special, so it is named after the bergamot, and the local people are competing to introduce it and carry it forward in Yongchun.

After bergamot tea left Anxi, it was favored by overseas Chinese in Southeast Asia because of its special flavor. In 1917, overseas Chinese in Malaysia raised funds to establish Yongchun Huaxing Planting Industry Co., Ltd., and planted bergamot in the area of Yongchun Hugang and sold it in Nanyang, laying a good foundation for the development of bergamot tea.

Happening: Capturing the Taste of Being Left Behind

The flowers inside the wall are incense outside the wall, and the golden osmanthus has the same opportunity as the bergamot tea.

The original name of Huangjingui was Huangyu. In the 1920s, Jintai Tea House in Luoyan, Anxi transported locally produced Huangyu tea to Hong Kong, Singapore and other places via Zhangzhou, Xiamen, with the trademark "Golden Expensive", which was well recognized by overseas Chinese. It may be that the variety of Huangyu tea is similar to sweet-scented osmanthus, which gradually changed "Golden Gui" into "Golden Gui". After the founding of New China, the high output value of Huangjingui was valued by the local government, and special funds were allocated to support the development of the industry. It was once the two pillars of Anxi tea alongside Anxi Tieguanyin. Of course, to be favored by overseas Chinese, the aroma of sweet-scented osmanthus and peach in traditional golden osmanthus is quite charming.

Luoyan's red soil strata

Huangjingui originated from Huqiu Luoyan in Anxi, and is a national-level fine tea tree variety with a history of artificial cultivation for more than 100 years.

However, in the current Anxi Luoyan area, it seems difficult to imagine the grand occasion of the export of golden laurel. In other words, in the era when Anxi Tieguanyin took off rapidly, Anxi's tea industry resources were devoted to the development of Tieguanyin. Whether it was variety replacement or production management, it was inseparable from the guiding principle of "increasing production and serving the country". However, due to limited natural resources, excessive pursuit of yield, and even creating yield by seemingly "scientific" methods, is tantamount to killing chickens and retrieving eggs. Of course, after the market collapse of Tieguanyin, many oolong teas produced in Anxi were also lost. Now going deep into the old tea gardens in Huqiu, no matter how hard the local government tries to turn the tide, the sequelae caused by the supremacy of production growth in those years can still be seen.

In the legend of the bergamot riding tiger rock, the big-leaf oolong grafted on the bergamot tree is not so lucky.

Among the several varieties in Anxi, in addition to Tieguanyin, I personally prefer the "Oolong Yun" of Daye Oolong. The well-made big leaf oolong tea soup has a mellow taste, and the aroma is similar to the magnolia flower floating in the distance, light and leisurely. Compared with the directness of Huangjingui, Daye Oolong is more like a slow-heating elder, stable and not rushing to express, the tea fragrance is almost submerged in the tea soup, the outer fragrance is not exaggerated but the inner fragrance is remarkable, and the aftertaste is long.

Left | Tieguanyin tea buds, purple buds, round leaves, crooked tails, finger prints

Right | Golden Osmanthus Tea Tree Tea

It may also be that Daye Oolong is too slow to heat up, or the current set of tea evaluation standards is not very applicable, which often makes it difficult for people to feel its charm at the first time, especially in the modern society that pays attention to efficiency and pursues fast transactions. , the advantage has turned into a disadvantage. This is the beginning of a vicious circle, losing the economic drive in the market, and the tea fields that originally planted Daye Oolong began to change their doors and plant Tieguanyin. Even if the production status of Daye Oolong is still maintained, the process will be automatically reduced and the production will be done in the most labor-saving way.

It is not only Daye Oolong that faces such a problem. Benshan and Hairy Crab, which are also known as the four major Anxi species along with Tieguanyin and Huangjingui, are also not optimistic in the industrial environment where Tieguanyin is the mainstream. It's just that the flavors of Benshan and Hairy Crab are similar to Tieguanyin's. If you put them on the market with less tangled varieties, as long as you put on the packaging of Tieguanyin, you can almost follow the price of Tieguanyin. Perhaps because their characteristics are too similar, some tea art training classes in Beijing also teach students how to identify Tieguanyin, Benshan and hairy crabs. But this is also one of the joys of drinking tea, seeking differences in different flavors and seeking common ground in differences.

Outlook: hidden without diminishing its reputation

In fact, a good tea maker, just like a good chef, processes the ingredients according to the characteristics of the ingredients and shows them in their best state. It may be that Anxi has developed Tieguanyin with great strength and time, but other species native to this area have declined, and they have to hide their names in the wild. Or marry someone, and appear in the name of Tieguanyin. In fact, Tieguanyin's production methods or evaluation standards may not be applicable to different varieties. Just like children who are "biased" in the college entrance examination, as soon as the admission standards or weights change, there will be different evaluations immediately.

Hairy crab wild tea, new branches and new leaves

Good flavor still needs to be given enough platform to show. This year, I went to Anxi Sanyang Village to find Yang Fuding, the producer of Mei Zhan. Sanyang Village is affiliated to Anxi Lutian and is located in a remote location. It takes nearly three hours to drive into the mountain from Anxi County, and is basically isolated from the outside world. The last time I met Comrade Lao Yang was two years ago, and it was really not easy to go to Sanyo. As soon as I got off the bus, Comrade Lao Yang graciously held my hand to express my gratitude. Under our promotion for three consecutive years, the high-quality Sanyo Meizhan has gradually opened its popularity and walked out of Anxi, and more and more people have recognized it. The geology of Sanyang Village is different from other places. Yinping Mountain, where Meizhan tea is grown, is deposited by volcanic magma, and the flavor of tea deposited by volcanic rocks is naturally different from other places.

I think this is also the value of "Qingxi Hidden" and "Sydney Bergamot Tea", so that the hermits in Anxi can be hidden in the city, and their reputation is not diminished even though they are hidden.