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铁观音纯雅礼和
铁观音纯雅礼和


乌龙茶色香韵味
‍‍乌龙茶色香韵味
News Detail

安溪铁观音品茶论道

  1
Issuing time:2022-04-04 11:38

去年秋日的一个下午,朋友相邀我喝铁观音茶去!


朋友是福建泉州人,对安溪铁观音自然了如指掌。


落座之后,只听他娓娓道来。




铁观音原产于福建安溪县(隶属泉州市),介于红茶和绿茶之间,是半发酵茶,因成茶沉似铁,茶香浓郁,制茶人疑为观音所赐,故名。




安溪唐代已产茶,明代稍盛,铁观音于乾隆初年创制,至今有两百余年历史……




不知不觉中,只见服务小姐上来表演铁观音的冲茶功夫:


只见她先用沸水烫壶,喻之“贵妃沐浴”。然后,装入六七成茶叶,搭配三分之一茶末放中层,此道工序谓之乌龙入宫(落茶)。


冲泡时水壶提高,叫“高山流水”,为的是茶味尽快释放。


继之是“春风拂面”(刮泡沫)、“关公巡城”(倒茶)、“韩信点兵”(点茶)、“赏色闻香”(看茶)、“品啜甘露”(喝茶)


——这样一道道工序,让我目不暇接,其间铁观音特有的香气扑鼻而来,让人迫不及待。




朋友提醒,品尝铁观音要三口,一口饮下视为不雅。此时,我轻轻啜上一口,留在舌间,刹那间,齿颊留芳,疲乏顿逝。那天,或许是午餐酒菜丰盛,又有这么优雅的环境和芬芳的铁观音,我就有点喜新厌旧了,我以前喜欢龙井,绿剑,虽色、香、味俱全,但寒气较重,多喝胃部不适,而铁观音有暖胃之功效。




回来以后,我便迷上了铁观音。




像茶楼中那样复杂的茶艺自然没有条件,但我简单茶艺,倒也乐趣不少。我用宜兴的紫砂茶壶和白瓷小盅,加入适量茶叶,用沸水(必须用泉水),冲入茶壶中。这时,启盖端杯轻闻,其独特香气即芬芳扑鼻,且馥郁持久,令人心醉神怡。真可谓“未尝甘露味,先闻圣妙香”。细啜一口,舌根轻转,可感茶汤醇厚甘鲜;缓慢下咽,回甘带密,韵味无穷。




有人说,乐观的人爱酒,悲观的人爱茶,我不赞成。茶里那种飘然神逸的气质,是酒所没有的。饮茶可以提神解渴,品茶可以修身养性。




久别重逢的人喜欢围坐在飘散着袅袅茶香的小几旁,叙昨日之事,手足之情;而要分别的人却喜欢不住地“劝君更进一杯酒”,在迷醉中忘却宴席散尽的痛苦。




我爱铁观音茶叶,因为铁观音能把苦涩留在心底,而散发出来的都是清香。

One afternoon last fall, a friend invited me to have tea!


My friend is from Quanzhou, Fujian, and he knows Anxi Tieguanyin very well.


After being seated, just listen to him speak.




Tieguanyin originated in Anxi County, Fujian Province (under Quanzhou City), between black tea and green tea.




Tea was already produced in Anxi in the Tang Dynasty, and it flourished in the Ming Dynasty. Tieguanyin was created in the early years of Qianlong, and it has a history of more than 200 years...




Unconsciously, I saw the waitress come up to perform Tieguanyin's tea-making kung fu:


I saw that she first used boiling water to scald the pot, which was a metaphor for "the imperial concubine bathing". Then, 60 to 70 percent of the tea leaves are filled, and one third of the tea powder is placed in the middle layer. This process is called oolong entering the palace (falling tea).


When brewing, the kettle is raised, called "alpine running water", in order to release the tea flavor as soon as possible.


Followed by "spring breeze blowing face" (scraping foam), "guangong patrol city" (pour tea), "Han Xin ordering soldiers" (ordering tea), "appreciating the color and smelling the fragrance" (watching tea), "sipping nectar" ( drinking tea)


——Such a process makes me dizzy, and the unique aroma of Tieguanyin fills my nostrils, making people unable to wait.




Friends reminded that it takes three mouthfuls to taste Tieguanyin, and it is considered indecent to drink it in one mouthful. At this moment, I took a light sip and left it between my tongue. In an instant, my teeth and cheeks were fragrant, and my fatigue passed away. On that day, maybe it was because of the rich wine and food for lunch, and the elegant environment and the fragrant Tieguanyin, I was a little bit fond of the new and disliked the old. I used to like Longjing and Green Sword. Although the color, fragrance and taste are complete, the coldness is heavier, so drink more to the stomach. External discomfort, and Tieguanyin has the effect of warming the stomach.




After coming back, I fell in love with Tieguanyin.




There are no conditions for a complex tea art like that in a tea house, but I have a lot of fun with simple tea art. I use a Yixing Zisha teapot and a small white porcelain cup, add an appropriate amount of tea leaves, and pour boiling water (must use spring water) into the teapot. At this time, when the lid is opened and the cup is lightly smelled, its unique aroma is fragrant and fragrant, and it is fragrant and lasting, which is ecstatic. It can be said that "before you taste the taste of nectar, first smell the holy fragrance". Take a sip and turn your tongue slightly, you can feel the mellow and fresh tea soup; swallow slowly, the sweetness is dense and the flavor is endless.




Some people say that optimistic people love wine and pessimistic people love tea. I don't agree. The airy air in tea is not found in wine. Drinking tea can refresh your mind and quench your thirst, and drinking tea can cultivate your body.




People who meet again after a long absence like to sit around a small table with the scent of tea wafting around, recounting yesterday’s events and brotherhood; while those who want to separate like to “persuade you to drink more wine” constantly, forgetting the banquet in intoxication. Pain gone.




I love Tieguanyin, because Tieguanyin can keep the bitterness in my heart, and all it emits is the fragrance.


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