铁观音私房茶

春雨充足，河水染上新绿。唐代诗人韦庄的《叶金门》，似乎在说茶。

湖南的仲春，明媚的春光和缠绵的春雨交相辉映。不管是晴天还是雨天，都是边看书边泡新茶的好时机。拿一个玻璃杯，放一杯新茶，用水冲一下，原本上下卷曲的铁观音茶叶碎片，逐渐由淡黑色变成淡黄色，再变成新绿。茶叶慢慢沉到杯底，叶尖倔强如山峰，整杯水“浸”成绿色，这就是杯中的“青山绿水”。

中国是茶的故乡。朋友聚会，人来人往，总要为他们泡茶。茶不仅是一种饮料，而且有着深厚的文化底蕴。在漫长的历史岁月中，形成了博大精深的茶文化。琴、棋、书、画、诗、酒、茶，文人墨客都与茶结下了不解之缘。一杯好茶，带着花香，带着对歌的热爱，带着好味道，就是一本可以喝的诗集。本报记者储文静采写

【平江红】看茶人只是生命的本能

在湖南作家和湖南文学作品中，不能不提到彭建明和他的《山中人与狗》。1982年，彭建明写作的第二年，他躲在家乡平江的一个小山城里写作。当时没有电话，和外界的联系都是靠写信，所以他只能到只有一个人值班的农村邮局寄信。值班的军官告诉他，邮递员很辛苦，扛着包裹，长年累月翻山越岭跑，跑一个邮班要四天，这样一走就是几十年。彭建明把值班店员提供的细节写进了小说《那山的人和狗》。

邮递员老了，所以在他父亲肩上扛了半辈子的扁担被移到了另一个年轻人的肩上。一个几十年如一日，孤身在山野的老人，带着包裹，带着狗，想把儿子交给他，首先要领着他上路，教他尽责，告诉他很多。

小说里的老邮差是有原型的，原型是彭建明的爷爷。多年后，彭建明在他的散文集《可敬的人》中描述了他的九位长辈，包括他的曾祖母、曾祖父和曾祖母、祖父和祖母、祖父母、父亲和母亲。他说他“长着一整层的翅膀，不断地聆听来自家庭深处的海浪声”。

书中，彭建明还原了被他多次写进文学，构造成多个有血有肉的人物形象的爷爷。彭建明的爷爷是品茶和鉴定茶叶的专家，在当地被称为“茶监”。

平江位于湖南省东北角，被黄龙、幕府、李安运、福寿四道天然屏障环绕。山峦起伏，形成大大小小的盆地。汨罗江发源于大山沟，自东向西，汇集众多支流，蜿蜒流经境内，长达三百里。全县有“七山一水一田半路半庄园”。气候温和，雨量充沛，无霜期长，淤泥质土壤适宜茶叶生长，有利于茶叶生产的发展。平江人一直都是喝茶种茶的。明清时期，平江成为重要的茶乡。光绪年间，平江茶拾获“港地”美誉，远销欧亚各国。

“平江自古以来就是产茶重镇。关于茶的知识和与茶有关的故事我还是有一些积累的，但是从来没有写过一篇关于茶的文章。作为茶观察者的后代，也许我天生对茶有一点敬畏。”彭建明对记者说。

彭建明的作品也不是没有茶。他早期的短篇小说《爱》讲述了一对青年男女因一起爱喝的菊花茶而发生的悲喜婚姻。味道。后来，小说被改编成电影《菊花茶》，受到读者和观众的喜爱和追捧。

但关于家乡铁观音的茶，彭建明写的是隐忍和克制。在《穷人的温暖》中，彭建明写道，他的祖父

The spring rains are enough, and the river is dyed with new green. "Ye Jinmen" by Wei Zhuang, a poet in the Tang Dynasty, seems to be talking about tea.

In the middle of spring in Hunan, the bright spring sunshine and the lingering spring rain complement each other. Whether it's sunny or rainy, it's a good time to make a new cup of tea while reading. Take a glass, put a cup of new tea, flush it with water, the pieces of tea that were originally curled up and down, gradually turned from light black to light yellow, and then turned to new green. The tea leaves slowly sink to the bottom of the cup, the tip of the leaf is stubborn like a mountain peak, and the whole cup of water is "dipped" into green, which is the "green mountains and green water" in the cup.

China is the hometown of tea. When friends meet, people come and go, they always make tea for them. Tea is not only a drink, but also has a profound cultural heritage. In the long historical years, a broad and profound tea culture has been formed. Qin, chess, calligraphy, painting, poetry, wine and tea, literati have forged an indissoluble bond with tea. With the fragrance of flowers, the love of songs, and a good taste, a good cup of tea is a book of poetry that you can drink. Written by the newspaper reporter Chu Wenjing

[Pingjianghong] Looking at tea people is just the instinct of life

Among Hunan writers and Hunan literary works, one cannot but mention Peng Jianming and his "The Man and the Dog in the Mountain". In 1982, Peng Jianming's second year of writing, he hid in a small mountain town in his hometown of Pingjiang to write. At that time, there was no telephone, and the contact with the outside world was by writing letters, so he could only send letters to the rural post office where there was only one person on duty. The officer on duty told him that the postman is very hard, carrying parcels, running around the mountains and mountains for many years, and it takes four days to run a post, and it takes decades to travel like this. Peng Jianming wrote the details provided by the duty clerk into the novel "The Man and the Dog in Nashan".

The postman was getting old, so the shoulder-pole that had spent half his life on the shoulders of his father was moved to the shoulders of another young man. An old man who has been alone in the mountains and fields for decades, accompanied by parcels and dogs, wants to hand over to his son, first of all, he must lead him on the road, teach him to do his duty, and tell him a lot.

The old postman in the novel has a prototype, and the prototype is Peng Jianming's grandfather. Years later, Peng Jianming described his nine elders in his prose collection "Honorable Men", including his great-grandmother, great-grandfather and great-grandmother, grandfather and grandmother, grandparents, father and mother. He said he grew up "with a whole hierarchy of wings, constantly listening to the sound of the waves from deep within the family".

In the book, Peng Jianming restores his grandfather who has been written into literature by him many times and constructed into many characters of flesh and bones. Peng Jianming's grandfather was an expert in tea tasting and tea identification, and was locally known as "tea watcher".

Pingjiang is located in the northeast corner of Hunan Province, surrounded by four natural barriers of Huanglong, Mufu, Lianyun and Fushou. The mountains and rolling hills form large and small basins. The Miluo River, which originates from Dashangou and flows from east to west, gathers numerous tributaries, meanders across the territory, and flows for three hundred miles. The county has "seven mountains, one water, one field, half road and half manor". The climate is mild, the rainfall is abundant, the frost-free period is long, and the silt soil is suitable for the growth of tea, which is conducive to the development of tea production. People in Pingjiang have always been drinking and growing tea. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, Pingjiang became an important tea town. During the Guangxu period, Pingjiang tea picked up the reputation of "Hong Kong Land" and exported to Eurasian countries.

"Pingjiang has been an important tea production town since ancient times. I still have some accumulation of knowledge about tea and stories related to tea, but I have never written an article about tea. As a descendant of tea watchers, maybe I am innately right Tea holds a bit of awe." Peng Jianming said the reporter said.

Peng Jianming's works are not without tea. His early short story "Love" tells the story of the sad and happy marriage between a young man and a woman because of the chrysanthemum tea they love to drink together. taste. Later, the novel was adapted into the movie "Chrysanthemum Tea", which was loved and sought after by readers and audiences.

But regarding tea in his hometown Pingjiang, Peng Jianming wrote forbearance and restraint. In "The Warmth of the Poor", Peng Jianming wrote that his grandfather was "loyal to people and equally loyal to things". For more than 30 years, he has been a temporary worker as a temporary worker and was arranged in the most remote supply and marketing cooperative in the county. It takes five or six hours to take the shuttle bus from the county seat. For decades, my grandfather did not go home for a New Year's dinner. Every fortnight, my grandfather had to go back to the county to check the bill. He usually left at one o'clock in the morning. After finishing his work, he would go back along the ancient tea-horse road.

"I grew up in a mountain village in Pingjiang County. The characters, events and scenes depicted in the novel are what I face every day and the ordinary life of the people in the mountains. What I reflect is just the starting point of the conscience of the laborers. The instinct of life is the starting point of literature, that is, respect for the essence of a beautiful life." Peng Jianming said.