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铁观音纯雅礼和
铁观音纯雅礼和


乌龙茶色香韵味
‍‍乌龙茶色香韵味
News Detail

白茶、岩茶、红茶 正确冲泡方法

  1
Issuing time:2022-02-27 15:40

1》


俗话说,成大事者不拘小节。


但也有人说,细节决定成败。


这两句话看起来矛盾,可实际上并不矛盾。


不拘小节,讲的是一个人的心胸、格局和判断力。


也就是大局观要好,心胸格局要大,立志高远,不要把精力浪费在眼前和身边的琐事上。


即使眼前有挫折,困难重重,也只是小节,不会因此被击败,更不会停下脚步。




所以,伟人可以在绝境中自信地喊出:“星星之火,可以燎原”。


而细节,则指的是一个人做事情的时候,严谨周密。


说到注意细节,我脑子里闪现而过的,是狄仁杰之类的神探。


他们之所以在办案时能成功,除了有天赋加成,更重要的是对于事物的敏锐,易于发现常人发现不了的东西。


故而,成大事者,可以不被小节所限制,然后认真地去把大事的每一个细节做好。


这也就是我们平时所说的,细节的力量。



《2》


朋友A君是个很注重细节的人。


当然,他可不是什么神探,也不是侦探小说作家。


只不过在平时一起喝茶的时候,发现他的的确确是个“细节控”。


比如,上周在茶桌上,他问了我们一个很细节的问题:


“用白瓷盖碗泡茶的闲暇之余,在还需要继续泡的情况下,盖子是盖在碗上,还是打开放在碗沿上斜搭着?”


相信这个问题,大多数人都想过,可只有少数人会真正在意。


在众人看来,或许这根本就不算问题。



大部分茶客的想法是,盖着也行,不盖也行,反正不会对茶叶的味道产生太多影响。


可实际上,并非如此。


两泡茶之间,揭盖晾茶,会对茶汤滋味产生一定的影响。


试想一下,刚刚出汤时,碗内的茶叶被沸水泡过后,还是热气腾腾的状态。


彼时,把盖子揭开,等于是直接把叶底暴露在空气当中。


随着热气,茶叶中的茶香和某些物质,就会大量飘散出去。


等到喝完这杯茶,再重新把水烧开,中间间隔的时间一长,风味就变了。


再冲泡的时候,明显感觉到这杯茶汤,不如上一杯来得香气馥郁,汤感淳和。


尤其是现在,初春时节,微风阵阵。


泡茶的时候,窗户如果是打开着的,会发现茶汤凉得很快,茶香飘散得更快。


因此,我们不建议揭盖晾茶。


时间充足的话,一泡茶最好是连贯的冲泡,中间不要间隔太长时间。


尽可能完整地,感受每一冲茶汤里的馥郁香气,柔润汤感,以及微妙的变化。


而即便是临时有事,短时间内无法再冲泡了,仍然不需要揭盖晾茶。


合盖的时候,在盖碗上留个小缝即可。


如果离开的时间太长,中间间隔十几个小时,那这杯茶也已经变成了隔夜茶。


不管有没有揭盖晾茶,都不提倡继续喝了。



《3》


不过,也有一部分茶客习惯了揭盖晾茶。


据说,这是过去喝铁观音留下来的习惯。


还记得某次出去喝茶,发现主泡者在揭盖和不揭之间,踌躇不定。


出汤之后,先把盖子拿下来放在一旁,思考几秒后,又重新盖了回去,再斟酌一会儿,又把盖子斜搭在碗边上。


这一顿操作下来,实在让人感到疑惑。


如果是老茶客,甚至会觉得对方不够专业,心里没底。


后来,也问了身边的一个朋友,他是铁观音的狂热粉丝。


他的回答是,要揭盖,并且列举了三个理由。


第一,揭开盖子,能让茶叶中的青味散出去一些,香气变得更加纯正;


第二,揭开盖子,能使茶叶耐泡度增加;


第三,揭开盖子,不会让娇嫩的茶叶被高温闷坏,破坏口感。


但以上所说的这些理由,或许的确适用铁观音,并且还得是消青铁观音。


在冲泡消青铁观音时,揭盖晾茶的初衷,是怕高温闷坏茶叶。


担心沸水留下来的高温,把茶叶闷黄,破坏了茶叶里的叶绿素,确保下一冲茶汤仍旧是好喝的、鲜爽的。


可对于传统工艺的正味铁观音,就不必如此。


看来,仅仅是铁观音这一种茶,就有这么多种复杂的情况。


而其它的茶类,如白茶、岩茶、红茶等,更需要用适合它们的方式来冲泡,而不是盲目照搬。


就拿白茶来说,很多人觉得,白茶喝起来和绿茶、消青铁观音的味道有点相似。


都是“小清新”风格,香气清莹,汤感鲜爽润泽。


然而,白茶在制作的过程中,已经经历过了高温的考验。


它的工艺,主要是萎凋和干燥,用适当的温度,将体内的水分蒸发出去,使含水量达标。



另外,白茶的芽头和叶背上,还覆盖着白毫。


尤其是来自高山的白茶,因为生长条件特殊,温度低,茶树便开启了御寒机制——长白毫。


所以我们会发现,高山白茶身上的白毫,又浓又密。


白毫的作用,除了能够给我们带来鲜爽感外,还具有很强的防水性。


因此,白茶先天长有白毫,后天再经过加工,压根就不惧怕沸水的冲泡。


既然不怕沸水,白茶又怎么会被闷黄、闷坏,破坏口感呢?


这种担心,完全是多余的。



《4》


至于岩茶和红茶,它们就更不怕高温了。


因为在加工的时候,都不同程度地经历过高温的考验。


而区区沸水,对成品茶叶起不到什么伤害,反倒是有利于香气和滋味物质的充分释放。


值得一提的是,武夷岩茶的焙火工艺,茶叶需要在高温的焙火间,待上数十个小时。


如果这样的温度都能承受,何况是合盖时,盖碗里的温度呢?


此外,关于揭盖晾茶能增加耐泡度的说法,同样是没有依据的。


一款茶究竟耐不耐泡,能泡几次,主要取决于品质。


品质优越,内质丰厚,养分充足,自然更耐泡。


即便没有揭盖晾茶,也能发挥出超群的表现,泡到七八冲,甚至突破十冲。

1"


As the saying goes, those who achieve great things are not careful about the small things.


But others say it's the details that determine success or failure.


These two sentences seem contradictory, but in fact they are not.


Indiscriminate, it is about a person's mind, pattern and judgment.


That is to say, it is better to have a good view of the overall situation, to have a big mind, to be lofty, and not to waste energy on trivial matters in front of and around you.


Even if there are setbacks and difficulties in front of you, it is only a small section, you will not be defeated, and you will not stop.




Therefore, the great man can confidently shout in the desperate situation: "A single spark can start a prairie fire".


The details refer to the meticulousness and meticulousness of a person when he does things.


When it comes to paying attention to details, the ones that flashed through my mind were detectives like Di Renjie.


The reason why they can be successful in handling cases is not only because of their talent bonus, but more importantly, they are keen on things, and they are easy to find things that ordinary people can't find.


Therefore, those who achieve great things can not be limited by the small sections, and then earnestly do every detail of the major events well.


This is what we usually call the power of details.



"2"


Friend A is a person who pays great attention to details.


Of course, he's not a detective or a detective writer.


It's just that when we usually drink tea together, I find that he is indeed a "detail control".


For example, at the tea table last week, he asked us a very detailed question:


"In the spare time of making tea with a white porcelain cover bowl, when you need to continue to make tea, should the cover be placed on the bowl, or should it be opened and placed diagonally on the edge of the bowl?"


Believe this question, most people have thought about it, but only a few people will really care.


In the eyes of everyone, this may not be a problem at all.



The idea of most tea drinkers is that it can be covered or not, and it will not have much effect on the taste of the tea anyway.


But in fact, not so.


Between two teas, uncovering the lid and drying the tea will have a certain impact on the taste of the tea soup.


Just imagine, when the soup is just out, the tea leaves in the bowl are still steaming after being soaked in boiling water.


At that time, opening the cover is equivalent to directly exposing the bottom of the leaf to the air.


With the heat, the tea aroma and certain substances in the tea leaves will drift out in large quantities.


After drinking this cup of tea, and then re-boil the water, the flavor will change after a long interval.


When brewing again, I obviously feel that this cup of tea soup is not as rich and fragrant as the previous cup, and the soup feels pure and harmonious.


Especially now, in the early spring, the breeze is blowing.


When making tea, if the window is open, you will find that the tea soup cools quickly and the fragrance of the tea dissipates faster.


Therefore, we do not recommend removing the lid to dry the tea.


If you have enough time, it is best to brew a tea in a continuous manner, and do not leave too long in between.


As complete as possible, feel the rich aroma, soft soup feel, and subtle changes in each brew.


And even if there is a temporary event, and it can no longer be brewed in a short time, there is still no need to lift the lid and dry the tea.


When closing the lid, leave a small slit in the lid.


If you leave for too long, with more than ten hours in between, then this cup of tea has become overnight tea.


Regardless of whether the tea is covered or not, it is not recommended to continue drinking it.



"3"


However, some tea drinkers are accustomed to uncovering the lid and drying the tea.


It is said that this is the habit of drinking Tieguanyin in the past.


I still remember a time when I went out to drink tea and found that the main brewer was hesitating between uncovering the lid and not uncovering it.


After the soup is out, first take off the lid and put it aside, think for a few seconds, then put it back on again, consider it for a while, and put the lid diagonally on the side of the bowl.


This operation is really confusing.


If you are an old tea customer, you may even feel that the other party is not professional enough, and you have no idea.


Later, I also asked a friend by my side, he is an avid fan of Tieguanyin.


His answer was to remove the cover, and he cited three reasons.


First, open the lid, so that the green flavor in the tea can be released, and the aroma becomes more pure;


Second, opening the lid can increase the foam resistance of the tea leaves;


Third, open the lid, so that the delicate tea leaves will not be suffocated by high temperature and destroy the taste.


But the reasons mentioned above may indeed apply to Tieguanyin, and it has to be the elimination of Tieguanyin.


When brewing Tieguanyin, the original intention of removing the lid and drying the tea is to fear that the high temperature will suffocate the tea leaves.


Worrying about the high temperature left by the boiling water will make the tea leaves yellow, destroy the chlorophyll in the tea leaves, and ensure that the next tea soup is still delicious and fresh.


But for the authentic Tieguanyin of traditional craftsmanship, this is not necessary.


It seems that there are so many complicated situations just for Tieguanyin tea.


Other types of tea, such as white tea, rock tea, black tea, etc., need to be brewed in a way that suits them, rather than blindly imitating them.


Take white tea as an example. Many people think that white tea tastes somewhat similar to green tea and Tieguanyin.


They are all in a "small and fresh" style, with a clear aroma and a fresh and moist soup.


However, in the process of making white tea, it has already experienced the test of high temperature.


Its process, mainly withering and drying, uses appropriate temperature to evaporate the water in the body, so that the water content reaches the standard.



In addition, the buds and leaf backs of white tea are also covered with Pekoe.


Especially the white tea from the high mountains, because of the special growth conditions and low temperature, the tea tree has turned on the cold protection mechanism-Chang Pekoe.


Therefore, we will find that the pekoe on the alpine white tea is thick and dense.


The role of pekoe, in addition to bringing us a sense of freshness, also has a strong waterproof.


Therefore, white tea is born with Pekoe, and it is processed the day after tomorrow, so it is not afraid of brewing in boiling water at all.


Since it is not afraid of boiling water, how can white tea be suffocated, suffocated, and spoil the taste?


This worry is completely unnecessary.



"4"


As for rock tea and black tea, they are even less afraid of high temperature.


Because during processing, they have experienced the test of high temperature to varying degrees.


The mere boiling water does not do any harm to the finished tea, but is conducive to the full release of aroma and taste substances.


It is worth mentioning that in the roasting process of Wuyi Rock Tea, the tea leaves need to be roasted at high temperature for dozens of hours.


If such a temperature can be tolerated, what about the temperature in the bowl when the lid is closed?


In addition, the claim that uncovering the lid and drying the tea can increase the foam resistance is also unfounded.


Whether a tea is resistant to brewing and how many times it can be brewed depends mainly on its quality.


The quality is superior, the inner substance is rich, the nutrients are sufficient, and it is naturally more resistant to foaming.


Even without removing the lid to dry the tea, it can still perform outstandingly, soaking to seven or eight brews, or even breaking through ten brews.


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