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铁观音纯雅礼和
铁观音纯雅礼和


乌龙茶色香韵味
‍‍乌龙茶色香韵味
News Detail

铁观音不是绿茶,大红袍也不是红茶  紫砂壶泡茶好还是瓷质盖碗好?

  1
Issuing time:2022-02-13 19:18

有这么一个绕口令“听说北方人管绿茶叫青茶,并以为铁观音是绿茶,但其实不知道铁观音真的是青茶,而青茶不是绿茶是乌龙茶”。这其实说的是大家对于茶叶分类的误解:茶并不是单纯按照颜色来分类,茶叶分类的基础是制作方法,也就是工艺。




铁观音和大红袍都经过一个叫做“做青”的工序,这个工序是乌龙茶在工艺上区别于其它茶类最核心的特点。不管绿茶还是红茶都没有这道工序。




做青:动图中的摇青和不摇静置交替进行的过程 拍摄:紫笋



大红袍之所以看起来外表乌润,是因为在初制结束后还要像烤面包或者烘咖啡豆一样经过一段时间的焙火,茶叶表面发生美拉德反应和焦糖化反应而色泽加深。铁观音则一般不经过这道工序而保持青绿的外表。并且传统的铁观音或者还没有焙火的大红袍是青色的,和绿茶的绿色并不完全相同,因此被称为“青茶”。现在青茶和乌龙茶所指的含义基本相同,但最早的时候乌龙茶指的是由乌龙茶树品种做的茶,乌龙茶树品种通常会被做成青茶,所以后来慢慢用乌龙茶来指青茶大类。




大红袍的焙火 拍摄:王辉




▐ 紫砂壶泡茶好还是瓷质盖碗好?




根据不同的茶来选择不同的茶器是让生活更具仪式感的方法。紫砂多孔易吸附的材料让它更适合冲泡一些像熟普、六堡茶等黑茶,或者老白茶、陈香型铁观音等老茶。茶叶在存放过程中难免产生一些杂异味,这些都可以被紫砂的材质吸附而让茶汤喝起来更加纯净好喝。



紫砂壶 拍摄:紫笋



瓷质或者玻璃质的不管是盖碗还是小茶壶都不具有吸附的特性。这种材质更适合冲泡具有馥郁香气,着重感受茶香的茶,比如乌龙茶。当然盖碗现在是一种通用茶器,所有的茶都可以用盖碗冲泡。这或许是因为盖碗不但易于茶水分离,同时也方便感受碗盖中凝聚的香气。



安溪铁观音茶叶评比时嗅闻盖香是评价茶叶品质的一个方法 拍摄:紫笋



至于玻璃茶器则主要用于着重观赏铁观音茶叶形状的绿茶,和观赏汤色的红茶。

There is such a tongue twister "I heard that the northerners call green tea green tea, and think that Tieguanyin is green tea, but in fact I don't know that Tieguanyin is really green tea, and green tea is not green tea but oolong tea". This is actually a misunderstanding of the classification of tea: tea is not simply classified according to color, the basis of classification of tea is the production method, that is, craftsmanship.




Both Tieguanyin and Dahongpao go through a process called "making green", which is the core feature that distinguishes oolong tea from other teas in terms of craftsmanship. Neither green tea nor black tea has this process.




Doing green: the process of alternating between shaking green and not shaking in the moving picture. Shooting: purple bamboo shoots



The reason why Dahongpao looks dark and moist is because after the initial production, it has to be roasted for a period of time like toasted bread or roasted coffee beans. Tieguanyin generally does not go through this process and maintains its green appearance. And the traditional Tieguanyin or Dahongpao that has not been roasted is cyan, which is not exactly the same as the green color of green tea, so it is called "green tea". Now the meanings of green tea and oolong tea are basically the same, but at the earliest time, oolong tea refers to tea made from oolong tea tree varieties, and oolong tea tree varieties are usually made into green tea, so later, oolong tea was gradually used to refer to green tea. kind.




The Roasting of Dahongpao Photo: Wang Hui




▐ Is it better to make tea in a purple clay pot or a porcelain bowl?




Choosing different tea utensils according to different teas is a way to make life more ritualistic. The porous and easy-adsorbing material of purple sand makes it more suitable for brewing some dark teas such as cooked Pu and Liubao tea, or old white tea, old-flavored Tieguanyin and other old teas. Tea leaves will inevitably produce some miscellaneous odors during storage, which can be absorbed by the material of purple sand to make the tea soup more pure and delicious.



Purple Clay Pot Photo: Purple Bamboo Shoots



Porcelain or glass, whether it is a cover bowl or a small teapot, does not have the characteristics of adsorption. This material is more suitable for brewing teas with a rich aroma, such as oolong tea. Of course, the Gaiwan is now a universal tea set, and all teas can be brewed with the Gaiwan. This may be because the gaiwan is not only easy to separate the tea and water, but also convenient to feel the aroma condensed in the bowl lid.



Smell the fragrance of the cover during the tea evaluation is a method to evaluate the quality of the tea. Photo: Purple Bamboo Shoots



As for the glass tea utensils, it is mainly used to focus on green tea for viewing the shape of tea leaves, and black tea for viewing the color of the soup.


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